New Friends

Today was the day that I would meet my fellow “volunteers”. I say volunteers, but I had booked a sports programme,  Muay Thai boxing, so I can’t really say I was volunteering. Other people would be teaching English, helping out in orphanages, or building work, in a more “volunteering” role. However, saying that you have to pay for the privilege of visiting Thailand to undertake these projects, and the money goes towards airport pick up, hotels, transport to project sites, accommodation, and local support teams. The “in house” companies also donate regularly to different projects. So while you might be wondering why should I pay to ”volunteer”, the money does get used for what they say it will and also, and this is a big plus, it is an excellent way to be introduced to a country and, whether traveling alone or with friends, a great way to meet other like minded people, some of whom will remain life-long friends. Anyway I digress….  I went to the “welcome meeting” at 8pm that evening.  I felt weird because having been on my own for the first two weeks in Thailand, I had sort of gotten into a routine of doing my own thing, and then to be surrounded by 50 other people… it’s a bit difficult to explain… but felt more alone now than I when I was on my own.

Volunteers
Volunteers

The next day we were met by our co-ordinators to be taken to Singburi, a small city 2 hours north of Bangkok, which was to be my home for the next 2 months.

Singburi
Singburi

The journey there was uneventful, but the countryside, when you get outside of Bangkok, is beautiful- sprawling green paddy fields, buffalos, and traditional Thai houses- this was the “real” Thailand. Singburi is not on the “tourist trail”, or wasn’t at that time, and not many foreigners visit, unless one is part of a tour/volunteering group such as the one I was part of. You get to see parts of a country that you normally wouldn’t see if you were just on a standard 2 week package holiday.

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The Journey North
The Journey North

The people that look after you whilst you are here all work for a local company. They speak both Thai and English and are there to cater for your needs, as well as showing you the local attractions, transporting you to your daily activities, which in my case was 8 weeks of Muay Thai boxing.  The accommodation was in the middle of nowhere, about 20 minutes from the main town by truck, and we were staying in the “brown house”. There were four separate houses, all close to each other, the brown house, blue, twin and lemon.  Their names in keeping with the colour they had been painted.  No shoes or alcohol were allowed in the houses and the food was only vegetarian.  Our house had a main building, with 3 bedrooms, kitchen and 2 bathrooms and an out-building, which had been converted into dormitories.  There was a list on the wall of sleeping arrangements and much to my hidden delight I had been allocated a single bedroom in the main building upstairs where the staff slept. I think it was something to do with me being the oldest, some 10 years older than the oldest person there. I have come to loath dormitories, having slept in quite a few on my travels, and now prefer to pay a little bit extra for a little bit more comfort and privacy.

The Brown House
The Brown House

I mentioned no alcohol was allowed in the house; however, we spotted a little “bar” across the road. I have put this into inverted commas because you couldn’t really call it a bar, not in the buy your drinks at the bar, sit in nice comfy seats AND actually be housed in a building, sense of the word. It was literally a few tables and chairs under a corrugated roof, with a fridge on the side of the road, and the bar staff slept there. Ha, but then this is Thailand (and one of the reasons why I love it so much). We frequented that bar every day and had some good times there.

Our Little Bar
Our Little Bar

Living at the brown house had its routines. Breakfast was 8-9am, lunch was 12-1pm and dinner was 5-6pm. Bit like being at school really, although the food was better. The first week of the tour was a sightseeing one and there was a lot of free time. Everyone was really nice, although there were a few girls who formed a little group and (maybe this was from being a bit older) but I thought they kept coming out with silly comments, and were not interested in anything that we went to see, only drinking and flirting with the boys. Now I am not saying there is anything wrong with that, most certainly not, but some of them didn’t really make the effort with anyone and it was slightly wearing after a while. We had our first Thai language lesson, which taught us the basics to get by, and an introduction to Thai culture- the dos and don’ts of living in this country. We had Thai lessons everyday of that first week. It wasn’t compulsory to go but as the activities were included in the cost of the trip it seemed silly to miss out on anything. I think I missed one, due to me and a guy from the UK, Niki, getting an impromptu lesson, in the bar the night before, from one of the co-ordinators, Yin. We came to the conclusion that the learning of Thai together with the consumption of alcohol made for an easier way to remember the words. Needless to say we did not remember anything when we went to our next lesson!

We had cooking lessons in which we learned how to make a variety of dishes, one being papaya salad. Papaya salad, or  ส้มตำ-Som Tam, is one of Thailand’s national dishes. It is relatively easy to make, very nutritious, and can be quite spicy but very flavoursome.

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The co-ordinators also took us for walks around the village, so we could get our bearings. Singburi is situated on the flat river plain of the Chao Phraya river, which weaves its way through the province. Near to where we stayed there was a small market with a few shops, and there were small restaurants along the river which serve different Thai dishes, including frog (กบ-gohp), which is actually quite nice, very spicy though but it tastes just like chicken. My favourite dish was chicken and rice (ข้าวมันไก่-Khao man gai) which was extremely cheap, around 20baht (about 40p). You will find that eating as the Thais do, on the street or in these little riverside restaurants, which are no more than a few tables and chairs, a cooking area and covered from the rain by a straw roof, are by far the cheapest places to dine.  Wednesdays were BBQ night and we all piled into trucks (สองแถว-songthaew , literally meaning two rows – 2 benches fixed along either side of the back of a truck, covered with a roof), into town. The BBQ place was a small restaurant with long wooden tables and chairs and there was a “help yourself” array of vegetables, salad and sauces. On the tables were small BBQ’s, which had a sloping middle section to cook the meat on and surrounding that was boiling water, in which to cook vegetables. They are quite delicious, although not my favourite way to dine, but it was nice to have some meat after 2 weeks of vegetables. There was also entertainment in the form of karaoke and, love it or hate it, (I only get involved if I have sunk several vodkas) the Thais absolutely love it. In that particular restaurant the staff lower a projector screen, on which to play the video of your chosen karaoke song, you get given a microphone and away you go. There are loads of karaoke bars and restaurants throughout Thailand, so if this is how your get your kicks on a night out, then you won’t have far to look.

Koh Samui

To get to Koh Samui from Hua Hin you first have to get to Chumphon. The journey takes 3 ½ hours by bus (12 from Bangkok). Then it’s another  3 ½ hours to Koh Samui, on board the Lomprayah ferry,  stopping at Koh Tao and Koh Pha Ngan.  I have used this ferry service a few times, and it seems to be chaos. Everyone gets a little coloured sticker to match the label for the luggage, and once on board you watch your luggage disappear under the hundreds of other suitcases and backpacks that get stowed at the front of the ferry. You wonder how on earth you are going to retrieve your belongings, but once you arrive at your destination (and especially if you are going to the furthest island, that is Koh Samui, when there are less people left to get off) you find your bag, and alight onto terra firma again without too much trouble.

 

 I stayed at Samui Beach Resort, in Lamai Beach http://www.samuibeachresort.com/index.html .  The rooms were basic with a fan, hot shower and a double bed.  There are other, more expensive, types of accommodation available, but if you are on a budget then the standard rooms are more than sufficient, ranging from 550- 1380 baht depending on which season you visit.

Samui Beach Resort

I was planning on having an early night because I was exhausted with all the travelling, but met a guy called Marco, who I had previously met in Bangkok, so we had dinner and a few drinks together. This is one of the beauties of travelling. Most people are on the same route, so you can bet you are going to meet up with them again some other place on your travels.

The next day I got up early, had breakfast overlooking the sea and went for a walk into town. Lamai beach is on the eastern side of the island and is a lot more relaxed than Chaweng or Bophut.  I planned to walk round a local market but they only had a few stalls open, so I walked back to the resort and did a bit of sun worshipping all afternoon. The waves are really big on this side of the island and the current is very strong, so you have to be very careful if you go into the water. I waded in, only knee-deep, but still managed to get washed up onto shore!

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Later, I met Marco again and he had been on a fishing trip and he had caught some yellow snapper. So we got the chef, in the hotel restaurant, to cook it for us and we had it for dinner. It was delicious, fresh from the sea (literally). Marco was a lovely guy and we had a laugh together, he was leaving for Oz the next day and I was to be alone again. Although I enjoy my own company, when I am travelling around, but it’s always nice to have someone to talk to now and again.  Saying that there is no shortage of people to talk to, you just have to put yourself out there a bit! At the time I felt that even though I had only been in Thailand for a couple of weeks, I knew that I loved it there and could quite easily stay (who would have known that I would be living in Thailand just one year later!)

I went on “The Jungle Tour” around Samui Island the next day. There were so many cool things to see and do. It was awesome. Our vehicle was an old army jeep, and we went to see waterfalls and rubber plantations, where they showed us how the sap is taken from the tree and made into rubber. There was a mummified monk, who is hundreds of years old and died in the meditating position. He sits in a glass case at Khunaram temple. We went elephant trekking, and saw a crocodile show.  The crocodile show consisted of these crazy guys sticking their hands into the crocs mouth to retrieve a 100 baht note. They also put their heads into the crocodile’s mouth. They used a stick to rub the crocs head with, presumably to either calm it or to let it know what he was about to do (although I am sure crocodile’s can’t be trained like other animals). If the crocs head closed he would have no head left! Crazy stuff!  And indeed this has happened recently, at Samut Prakan Crocodile Farm in Bangkok. Luckily the guy got away with head wounds. Nothing compared to what could have happened!

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The jeep was great, and because I was a solo participant on the tour, I got to ride on the seat above the driver, which I shared with two guys from Italy. I got a mouthful of trees a few times, and the driver was a bit of a nutter.  He kept squealing as he perched us at a 45 degree angle over a cliff top. It was quite amusing (for him?) and he added to our own squeals of delight (or terror!) We had lunch at the highest point of the island at some 650m about sea level, where there were beautiful views of the bays below.  I arrived back at the hotel and there was a BBQ going on at the hotel restaurant, where they had a band playing, so I spent a couple of hours there revelling in the experiences of the day.  I had such a fabulous day and it was worth the fact that I was so worn out from being jolted about in the jeep all day.

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I got up early the next day, had breakfast and went in search of new beaches. I walked about 15 minutes or so but every time I tried to get to the next stretch of the beach there were too many rocks or the water came right up to shore. So I walked on the road and finally got access to the beach, through a hotel. I found a lovely little beach and had it all to myself. I stayed there for a couple of hours and walked back to my resort, had lunch and then went to the beach near my hotel. Even thought it was an overcast day you still have to be careful. I spent so long lounging on the beach, reapplying sun cream at regular intervals, I still got burnt.

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My time on Koh Samui was over and I had to leave my hotel at 6.20am to catch the boat back to Chumphon. The crossing was fine and then the bus to Bangkok took 6 hours. I didn’t feel well today and had a banging headache all the way, but I finally got to Bangkok later that evening. Once off the bus I flagged a taxi to Khao San Road, but the taxi man told me I wouldn’t get accommodation, so I told him to do one and I walked. Luckily it wasn’t far and, as I had got lost on my wanderings previously, I knew where I was going.  I had arranged to meet Michael, who was also here with Real Gap, (Real Gap was the company I had booked a Muay Thai boxing programme through). Michael was 22, from Glasgow, and a really nice guy. We got on really well, considering that was the first time I had met him, and it was good to meet someone else, before I met up with the others.