City - Talkingthailand

Imaginarium – By Oleg Shuplyak

Art Galleries in Bangkok — Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre

Salvador Dali is one of my favourite painters, not only for his surrealism and imagination, but it’s so much fun to look at his paintings. Talk about tricking your mind – he definitely succeeds in doing that. Swans Reflecting Elephants is a classic optical illusion.

You’re looking at 3 swans on a lake, but their reflections turn into elephants – the clue is in the name! Look at it some more and you’ll suddenly realise that the tree trunks behind the swans are reflected as the elephants legs. Move your eyes away from the central focal point and see what else you can find. Can you see the man? The first time I saw this painting, I was blown away. The creativity and vision to be able to produce a piece like this is more than a little impressive.

I love Dali’s work, so imagine my excitement when I went to see an art exhibition at the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre a couple of weeks ago.

Let me introduce – Oleg Shuplyak – a very talented artist from Ukraine and his Bangkok exhibition – Imaginarium (great title, don’t you think?)

Since 1991, Shuplyak has been showing his work at exhibitions across the world and he is a member of the National Union of Artists of Ukraine. I’d never heard of this artist before, but he’s definitely on my radar now.

The reason I compare Shuplyak to Dali is because he (Shuplyak) is best known for his optical illusions – an element that Dali used in his paintings. His paintings are portraits of famous people with hidden images – the hidden elements are very Daliesque!

Every piece of work is very bright and colourful with so much detail and, of course, his trademark “painting within a painting.” Like with Dali’s paintings, the first time you look up close, you can see certain elements, but the more you look and widen your focus across the whole canvas, more things become apparent. People see things differently, and I couldn’t see the faces at first, but after stepping back they immediately popped out of the painting. Once your mind focuses on one thing, it’s difficult “not” to see it. That’s the beauty of this kind of art.

I found myself smiling more than once at this guy’s sheer brilliance. I scrutinised the faces and what was a mouth or an eye, turned out to be a bird or a house.

I kept chuckling to myself too because as I was looking at the fine details and the paint strokes, I’d move my eyes to the right and I could suddenly see…. well what can you see? It’s really fascinating.

It really was fun to see his creations and to challenge myself in trying to find everything that was hidden. Just like Dali was, Oleg Shuplyak is a brilliant artist. Their work has been, and is, such an inspiration for other artists that follow. It was so pleasing just to be able to see this work and to appreciate the talent that has gone into creating such wonderful pieces.

It’s not only portraits he succeeds in hiding. This is one of my favourites!

For more Oleg Shuplyak paintings go to www.morrisophotography.co.uk

The History of the Circus Maximus

When in Rome, one of the best places to get an idea of what an ancient Roman stadium looked like in its hey-day is the Circus Maximus (Circo Massimo.) Today, it’s a recreational park used for concerts, performances, and celebrations. It sits in the shadows of the Palatine Hill, holding onto a thousand secrets of the past. The history of the Circus Maximus is an interesting one to say the least.

The History of Rome — The Circus Maximus today – overlooked by Domitian’s palace

Situated at the south-west end of the Palatine Hill, the Circus Maximus was not only the first stadium ever built, but it was also the largest of its kind in ancient Rome and the Roman Empire.

It was built during the Etruscan era in the 6^th century BC and was used for ludi Romani – Roman games, such as religious festivals, feasts, gladiator fights, and plays, which took place for the benefit of the people and to honour the Gods. Although many of these occasions took place annually, eventually, when Rome got bigger during the late republic era, these events were held at least once a week at the circus. When there were no such occasions, the Circus Maximus was used as a practise ground for chariot riders or became a bustling market area for Rome’s residents.

The Circus Maximus was the most important venue for all of these occasions, but over time more and more venues were built, such as the Colosseum and the Stadium of Domitian, and these took over as the place to see gladiator fights and athletics. Even so, by the late 1^st century AD, the Circus Maximus continued to be the setting for chariot races.

These chariot races were thrilling, albeit highly dangerous, events and the crowds came from far and wide to witness these spectacles – and to place bets on their favourite charioteer to win. The chariots could be identified by colours and they were pulled by teams of horses –sometimes up to 12 abreast.

The charioteers, some of them slaves, became rich and famous – victories rewarded with gold or money and the continuous adoration of the crowd – even the winning horses were lauded. One such man was Gaius Appuleius Diocles. With over 1,462 victories, he became known as the best paid athlete of all time, allegedly winning 35,863,120 sesterces (a whopping $15 billion in today’s money). He became renowned for his chariot-racing skills where he would thunder past the leading chariot at the very last minute – whipping the crowds up into a frenzy.

Another celebrated charioteer went by the name of Scorpus or Scorpius. A slave when he first started out, he went on to be awarded the laurel wreath – the symbol of victory – countless times. He was victorious in over 2,000 races and won so much money that he was able to buy his freedom.

At first, the Circus Maximus was 540 m long and 80 m wide and it was on an area of land near the Tiber River, with nothing more than grass banks for spectators and turning posts at either end of the makeshift track. Later, Lucius Tarquinius Priscus, the 5^th king of the Etruscans, added wooden seating for Rome’s elite. His grandson, Tarquinius Superbus, then added additional seating for the common people.

By the time of Julius Caesar, in 50 BC, there was room for 150,000 spectators and the Circus Maximus was now 621 m long and 150 m wide. The arena’s seating was divided into caveas (enclosures). There were usually 3 caveas for each social class. Ima Cavea was for the upper class; media cavea for men; and summa cavea for women and children.

The Circus Maximus was further developed by Augustus and, following a fire in 31 BC, he erected Rome’s first ever obelisk on the central barrier – later this barrier was filled with temples, shrines and other structures, as well as being a safe place for fallen charioteers to recover while the race was still in progress. This Egyptian obelisk can now be seen in Piazza del Popolo. Further fires in 36 AD and 64 AD destroyed the arena, but the games continued because the circus was rebuilt in the same design.

During the early 2^nd century AD, stone seating was built around the track and it was there that Rome’s senators were able to get as close to the action as possible. In 81 AD, Domitian built his sumptuous palace on the Palatine Hill and he relished in being able to watch the games from his vantage point without being seen by the ever-expanding crowds.

Following the reign of Domitian, Emperor Trajan made the decision to rebuild the Circus Maximus in stone to prevent further fire damage and from this point on, save a few additions and alterations, the Circus Maximus was at its greatest and remained unchanged for many years to come.

By the 6^th century AD, the Circus Maximus had seen out its glory days and was no longer used. The stone was used for other buildings throughout Rome. The lower levels of the arena and the original track were now buried underground. Houses were built on the site in the 11^th century and throughout the 16^th century the Circus Maximus was used as to grow crops that could be sold in the local markets. A world away from its previous role in Roman society.

The early 20^th century saw excavations of the site begin in earnest and parts of the original central barrier and seating were uncovered. Sadly, some of these findings have since been buried again up to 9 m underground. However, more recent excavations have started to uncover a second Arch of Titus – the first one is near the Roman Forum and the Colosseum. Built by Emperor Domitian, it would have been a grand entrance to the Circus Maximus.

As these excavations continue, the more we can learn about the history of the Circus Maximus and all the secrets of the past.

Places to Visit in Bangkok – With a Twist

There are plenty of places to visit in Bangkok and exploring on foot is a great way to experience them. Of course, you could take a taxi, bus or skytrain, but you’d miss all that the lively streets of the city have to offer. Plus, you’ll find some interesting things along the way. I’ve lived in this wonderful city for 4 years now and I have visited most of the popular attractions, so when I am out, I search for different things to write about and take photographs of. So, if you’re in town, explore to your heart’s content and, if you feel like it, see if you can find these cool statues dotted around the city.

If you’re at Wat Arun, it’s fun to scamper up and down the steps of the main temple, but I found this Buddha statue through a red door. This one is the Alms Collecting Buddha or Begging Buddha and it represents compassion and caring for others. If you’re up early enough, it’s usual to see bare-footed, orange-robed monks collecting food from people all over the country. Just to be clear, the Buddha never begged for anything, the people gave him food, and now people continue to do this as a way of making merit to allow good karma into their lives.

Wat Arun sits on the banks of the Chao Phraya River – it’s better to go there, so you can see how the 5 prangs of the temple have been artistically decorated with seashells and pieces of coloured porcelain which sparkle in the sunlight. The views from the other side of the river aren’t bad either!

Places to visit in Bangkok — Alms Collecting Buddha or Begging Buddha at Wat Arun

This Buddha statue is in Benjakitti Park – right in the heart of the city – and it represents the Meditation Buddha, the Serenity Buddha or the Calming Buddha. You’ll notice the gold sculpture is triangle-shaped which means stability and many people who are seeking peace and calmness will sit in front of the statue and meditate. Whether you’re into meditating or not, Benjakitti Park makes for a welcome break from all the chaos of the busy streets nearby.

This cool little statue sits in the middle of a lily pond, surrounded by potted plants and miniature trees, in the gardens of M.R Kukrit’s Heritage Home. The home of Thailand’s 13th prime minister, it really is very pleasant to wander around the grounds, surprisingly peaceful considering its location in busy Sathorn. It might not be up there on your to-do list, but I guarantee it’s worth the effort of finding it.

Head to Chulachomklao Fort, in Phra Samut Chedi District, and you will find this splendid statue of King Chulalongkorn (King Rama V) in naval uniform. It’s the first thing you’ll notice when you arrive at the fort – built to protect Thailand from invading European countries. As well as this cool statue, you’ll find a gun park, an underground bunker with several disappearing guns, and the H.T.M.S. Maeklong. Also, don’t miss the mangrove walkway with its resident and totally nonchalant monkeys.

This huge Buddha statue represents the Earth Touching Buddha or Calling the Earth to Witness Buddha and it sits on the shores of the Chao Phraya River opposite the small island of Koh Kret, in Nonthaburi. With legs crossed, left hand resting on its lap, and right hand pointing towards the ground, this statue depicts the moment when the Buddha attained enlightenment. In his efforts, he was tempted by the demon, Mara, so he meditated all night to fight her off. It worked, and he called the Earth Goddess to witness his success.

The best way to see Koh Kret is to walk or cycle along its pathways through local villages. Shop at the colourful market or you could try your hand at pottery – not as easy as it looks, but you’ll come away with your very own creation as a souvenir.

On the junction of Rama IV Road and Silom Road, you’ll see this impressive statue of King Vajiravudh (King Rama VI), dressed in ceremonial uniform, at the entrance to Lumpini Park. The statue was built by Italian architect, Corrado Feroci, in 1941 and pays tribute to the king who donated a piece of land, called Sala Daeng, to be used as a public park. There is a lake and a jogging track and it’s a popular place for people to spend time as the sun goes down. There’s wildlife too – around 30 species of birds and a few dinosaur-like water monitors.

Get off the BTS at Ratchathewi and walk back towards the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre and you’ll come across this four-headed white-elephant statue which forms part of the Chaloem La 56 Bridge or Hua Chang (Elephant-Head Bridge) as the locals like to call it. The bridge was built to celebrate the 56th birthday of King Rama V. The bridge crosses the Saen Saep Canal where you can either walk along the pathway with loads of cool and colourful graffiti or take a boat in either direction to explore the city some more – traffic free!

This mammoth statue of King Rama I sits on the banks of the Chao Phraya River near the Memorial Bridge. The statue was designed by Prince Naris and made by Corrado Feroci in 1932 to commemorate the king who established Bangkok as the new capital of Thailand in 1782. From here, Yodpiman river walk is nearby where you can catch the ferry over to Thonburi or wander around the streets of Little India for delicious Indian snacks and a lively market.

Not far from Sathorn, in Bang Kho Laem district, is Asiatique The Riverfront – an open air mall, with loads of shops and restaurants, which really comes alive in the evenings. Asiatique is located on the former docks of the East Asiatic Company and they established the first international port to support incoming and outgoing trade. It’s there you’ll find these three bronze statues, looking out across the river, representing maritime activity from years ago. There are other similar statues nearby as well as a World War II bomb shelter, warehouses dating back to 1907, and a reproduction of the very first electric tram from the nineteenth century.

Also at Asiatique is the lovely Juliet Love Garden. This statue of Juliet stands, looking somewhat forlornly, in the middle of a small courtyard. The iron fence surrounding the statue has hundreds of padlocks with love messages inscribed forever.

I really love visiting the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre. No matter what time of year, there are loads of interesting exhibitions and photographic displays. Sometimes, there are one or two sculptures displayed outside on the street. I have no idea what this big-breasted, pointy-eared, warrior-type statue is all about, but it always makes me smile. With its outstretched arm it never fails to catch the attention of people passing by.

Wat Saket, also known as The Golden Mount is a splendid place to visit and if you walk up to the top, you’ll be rewarded with 360° views out over the rooftops of Bangkok.

To get to the top, there are over 300 steps which snake around the hill and, along the way, you’ll find this golden Buddha holding a staff and a parasol – possibly depicting him as he travelled far and wide teaching Dharma. The statue is standing under the forest-green foliage in the middle of a waterfall – the water splashing over the grey rocks is soothing.

Accompanying him are three wise monkeys who “hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil.” The relationship these monkeys have with the Buddha is that he believed the human mind is filled with screeching monkeys – all vying for our attention. The Buddha believed that meditation can quieten the monkeys, so we can live peaceful and calm lives.

Overlooking the Chao Phraya River and Bhumibhol Bridge is this Buddha statue which represents Repelling the Ocean and Preventing Relatives from Fighting. Repelling the ocean relates to when a hermit tried to cause a flood, but the Buddha meditated for as long as it took to stop it. Preventing the relatives from fighting tells the story of when the Buddha’s family were fighting over water, so he raised his right hand which made them stop arguing. Bonus points for finding this statue! Clue – hop on a ferry across the river to Bang Kachao and get exploring.

This huge statue of Ganesha, a well-known God in Hinduism, is located in Sri Nakhon Khuankhan Botanical Gardens, in Bangkok’s Green Lung, full of tropical trees and flowers, a large pond, and several walking and cycling paths. It’s a fabulous day out if you’re looking to get into nature and relaxation. Mooshika the rat sits at Ganesha’s feet and, being a rat, they are able to chew their way through anything. A handy partner to have when you are known as the remover of obstacles.

Not far from Dusit Park is the noble King Rama V Equestrian Statue. Built in the early twentieth century, this statue was erected to commemorate the king’s coronation. He also contributed much to the modernisation of Bangkok and the cost of the statue was raised by the people themselves to show their gratitude.

Also nearby is Wat Benchamabophit and Bangkok’s Old City with lots of historical sites and temples, bars and restaurants, and hundreds of nooks and crannies just begging to be explored – you could spend the whole day in this area and only just scratch the surface.

I hope you enjoy exploring these places to visit in Bangkok as much as I have. Let me know what else you find on your adventures 🙂

Art in the City

These days, one of my favourite pastimes is to visit any of the hundreds of art galleries, here in Bangkok. I mean there are literally hundreds and I have not even begun to scrape the surface because I always end up at my favourite; The Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre or BACC as we like to call it.

I first went to the BACC back in 2014 and it never fails to amaze me. There are always interesting exhibitions on and, every time I go there, it feels like it’s the first time, even though I know every square inch of the place. The first five floors circle around the central atrium with displays of photographs, drawings, or paintings on the walls. It’s such a lovely environment to stroll around and simply enjoy the artist’s creations. The light is perfect too – there are big windows which allow the natural light to stream in, but there’s also recessed lighting inside which helps to show the art off in the best possible way.

I’ve been to three art exhibitions over the past few months, each one different, each one just as fascinating and inspiring as the other.

Opera Omnia

Opera Omnia was held at the BACC and it featured 40 masterpieces by Caravaggio. Unfortunately, they weren’t the originals, they are all currently housed in museums around the world, but this exhibition was the next best thing! The paintings had been digitally reproduced in HD and, I’m happy to say, they did not take away the sheer brilliance of this master painter.

Caravaggio was active in Italy between 1590 and 1610 and he painted from life rather than drawings, much to the chagrin of his fellow painters. He was one of the great painters of the Baroque period and his use of Chiaroscuro, strong contrasts of light and dark, gave his paintings an almost life-life appearance. Much of his work depicts crucial moments, struggles, torture and death, transfixing his subjects in bright shafts of light. The intense realism of his paintings are what he became famous for and he greatly influenced many painters that came after him. Bernard Berenson, an American art historian, had this to say about Caravaggio: “With the exception of Michelangelo, no other Italian painter exercised so great an influence.” See if you can spot Caravaggio, he was known to include himself in some of his paintings!

Abandonia

I ventured to a new gallery called Jam, but it doesn’t really compare to the BACC, if only for the fact that when I asked where the gallery was, the guy asked me, “Gallery, what gallery?” with an air of disinterest in his voice. So much for promoting your place in a positive light! Luckily, another guy directed me upstairs, so I could find out what Abandonia was all about.

Bangkok is changing and it’s happening very quickly. There are many places that have been razed to the ground (don’t get me started on Hemingways!) to make way for shiny new hotels or condos! (like we need any more!) Unfortunately, no one cares about beautiful buildings or residents that have been in their homes for years or workers that are put out of jobs, it’s all about money. If the authorities are not careful, there will be nothing of interest left to see in the city. And, once it’s gone, people tend to forget.

Fortunately, there are people who want to remind people of what was, and Abandonia was an exhibition by Bangkok-based photographer Dax Ward who has made it his mission to go out and capture those abandoned places that no one cares about anymore. The exhibition showcases places in Bangkok and other parts of Thailand too. In his words, “Every derelict has its own history….they are reminders of what once was… the allure for urban explorers and photographers lies in identifying and capturing the remaining beauty in these forgotten locations…” Check out Dan’s website for more Abandonia photography.

Beyond The Air We Breathe – Addressing Climate Change

I wonder if we will ever realise how climate change can seriously affect the world we live in. This exhibition featured over 100 images by 80 world-renowned photographers, including one of my favourites – Steve McCurry, who have tried to depict the effects of a changing climate. Some of the photos are more than a little distressing, but all of them are stunning. Some are obvious in their message, some are not and it takes a while before you realise what the photographers are trying to convey. The capturing of these images is a powerful way to get the message across!

For photographs of the art galleries, check out morrisophotography 🙂

Caravaggio

Abandonia

Beyond The Air We Breathe

What art do you have in your city? 🙂

Last Day in Rome

I can’t believe how time flies sometimes, especially when you’re having fun, but here we were, our last day in Rome, it had come round so quickly, but we had seen a lot in the short time we had been there.

On our last day, we decided to take the metro to Circo Massimo, not just a metro station, but an ancient arena where the Romans used to congregate in their thousands to watch chariot races, athletics, and gladiator games.

Things to do in Rome — Circo Massimo as it was back then (Photo Credit: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Circus_Maximus_(Atlas_van_Loon).jpg)

As we walked across the, now, green expanse in the shadow of the Imperial palace on the Palatine Hill, I imagined what life would have been like back then. It would have been a thrilling experience to witness the events that took place.

We walked towards the Tiber River and across the Ponte Palatino also known as Ponte Inglese (English Bridge) with views of Isola Tiberina and the remains of Ponte Rotto (Broken Bridge) the oldest stone bridge the city.

Isola Tiberina is a small island in the middle of the Tiber, connected by bridges on either side, and it was once the site of an ancient temple of Asclepius, the Greek god of medicine and healing.

Nowadays, the Fatebenefratelli hospital and the Basilica of St Bartholomew are located on the island.

From there, we walked back over Ponte Fabricio, the oldest bridge in Rome, that still exists in its original state, and went in search of coffee passing by more Roman ruins, this was the Portico of Octavia which dates from around 27 BC.

As we sat on Via del Portico d’ Ottavia drinking coffee, even the stone walls have a story to tell.

We continued our walk, following the map, to Campo de Fiori, another of Rome’s captivating squares. This one had a colourful market full of fresh fruit and vegetables, cheeses, meats, and flowers. it was buzzing with people everywhere.

We walked around it, searching for a restaurant to have lunch in, when we were, pleasantly, accosted by a guy who excitedly told us how the pizzas in his (boss’) restaurant were different to all the others, they had traditional bases rather than the thick crusts of other parts of Italy, and they were the best we’d find here!

Of course he was going to say that! We said the usual statement that comes from these situations, that we were going to look around, but we walked just five paces and decided that we would go back to his restaurant, if only for his enthusiasm for his work! But, we were glad we did! He wasn’t lying about the pizzas, the thin-crusted Margheritas, washed down with a bottle of white wine, were really delicious. In fact, we enjoyed them so much, we had a second round of both pizza and wine. Actually, one of the reasons we decided to have two rounds was because our waiter was both funny and charming, and he made us feel really welcome and glad we had chosen Campo De Fiori Ristorante. If you’re ever in the vicinity, I really recommend this place.

After our scrummy lunch, we took our leave and walked through the cobbled streets of the city until we arrived at the Pantheon, Rome’s best preserved building from Roman times.

It’s circular with a portico of eight, huge Corinthian columns at the front and two groups of four at the sides. The Pantheon’s dome has a central opening, called an oculus, and 2,000 years after it was built, it’s still the biggest, unsupported dome in the world.

We sat on the steps of the Fontana del Pantheon, in the middle of Piazza della Rotonda, and watched the people milling around in the sunshine, in the shadow of this grand edifice.

Inscribed at the top of the portico are the letters: M-AGRIPPA-L-F-COS-TERTIVM-FECIT which translates as Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius made (this building) when consul for the third time. Fascinating stuff when you think about it, but it happens that this building was built by emperor Hadrian in 126 AD who kept the original inscription after Agrippa’s Pantheon was completely destroyed, and despite excavations it’s still uncertain who can be accredited with the building of it.

I never went inside, like with many of the places I visited while I was in Rome, that’s another reason to go back, but I was just happy to be in the company of my mum and dad.

In fact, I want to thank them for making some very special memories with me. It was time to cherish and I’ll never, ever forget it! Where to next mamma and papa? Grazie!! 🙂 ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥

From Piazza to Piazza

Today we’re taking the metro to Flaminio and starting off our day at Piazza del Popolo, a circular square with three fountains. On the north side is a gate called the Porto del Popolo, once the beginning of Via Flaminia, an important ancient Roman road which led to the north of Italy. Piazza del Popolo would be the first thing that visitors, travelling from the north, would lay eyes on.

Just looking at the piazza now, I reckon it would have been a grand sight, even back then, and one that would excite people into seeing more of the city. The piazza was used for public executions up until 1826, but, thankfully, these days it’s a much more happy and relaxed place and completely pedestrianised where people can come together to engage in more fun activities.

Depending on the story you choose to believe, Piazza del Popolo’s name is due the many poplar trees dotted around or it may have been named after the church of Santa Maria del Popolo which is adjacent to the main gate. The piazza is located at the top of three main streets, Via del Corso, Via del Babuino, and Via di Ripetta. Once called the Tridente, these three routes would have led to Rome’s main basilicas. The beginning of the tridente is marked by two churches, Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto.

The three fountains in the piazza were all built by Giovanni Ceccarini in the 19th century. On opposite sides, are the Fontana del Nettuno (Fountain of Neptune) and Fontana della Dea Roma (Fountain of the Goddess Rome) which depicts Dea Roma armed with her weapons with the she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus, in front. In the middle of the piazza is the Fontana dell’ Obelisco (Fountain of the Obelisk) which is actually four mini fountains with a lion on each plinth and the fountain, as a whole, surrounds the obelisk of pharaoh, Seti I which is one of the tallest obelisks in Rome.

We walked through Porto del Popolo, onto the piazza, and stood watching a group of kids playing Sunday morning football. There were loads of people around, but there was no jostling to get a spot to see anything because there was plenty of room to take photographs and take a leisurely walk around the piazza.

We left Piazza del Popolo and wondered up the steps to Pincio Gardens. We didn’t go into the gardens, but took a stroll along Viale della Trinita dei Monti towards the Trinita dei Monti church and the Spanish steps. The views across the rooftop of Rome were fabulous.

We arrived at the Spanish Steps, so named, not because they were built by a Spanish architect, but because the Spanish embassy is located at the bottom.

There are 135 steps leading down to Piazza di Spagna which were designed by architects Francisco de Sanctis and Alessandro Specchi and are adorned with planters of beautiful flowers all the way down.

There were hundreds of people in the piazza and before we headed down into the throng of things, it was nice to stand at the top and look down on all the activity below.

At the bottom, is Fontana Della Barcaccia (Fountain of the Longboat) which is Baroque in design and created by Bernini’s father.

From there, we wandered through the piazza and found a cafe to sit and relax for a while over a coffee (wine!!!) before heading to the metro to go to the other side of the city and Piazza Vittorio Emanuele.

Piazza Vittorio Emanuele is home to Giardini Nicola Calipari, a small garden which really comprises the whole piazza. Although there is a fountain and some ruins there, it isn’t as attractive as other gardens in Rome because it was a little run down and the grass was overgrown in parts.

However, there was a lively Hindu festival in full swing and the colours of the women’s saris together with the music added a touch of excitement in an otherwise drab space.

From the piazza we walked towards Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore and the grand domed basilica of the same name. We by-passed the impressive building and found a little restaurant tucked in a little cobbled alleyway. The weather wasn’t what you’d call warm, but it wasn’t cold enough that we had to sit inside, so still wrapped in scarves, we found a table and sat and watched the world go by as we enjoyed our lunch.

We realized we weren’t that far from our hotel, so we took a slow walk back to Via Nazionale and stopped off for an afternoon tipple before we headed back to our hotel to get ready for our second to last night out in Rome.

Next time: Isola Tiberina

Back in Rome

We arrived back in Rome and decided we would go out for dinner in the city. Usually, we just ate near the hotel, but this evening we decided we were going to take the metro and find a restaurant near the Trevi Fountain.

We came out of the metro station onto Piazza Barberini, with its 17th century Baroque fountain, and down Via del Tritone, a less-touristy area of the city, with shops and restaurants, office buildings, and people going about their daily business. ,

We turned into a side street and found ourselves on Via del Lavatore, a narrow, cobbled street with tall buildings on either side, much more atmospheric with plenty of restaurants to choose from, some with al fresco dining, and tourists making a bee-line for one of Rome’s most famous attractions. It was buzzing with activity. Sorry folks, no photographs! 🙁

As we walked along, we were approached by friendly staff, trying to attract customers into their restaurants, which all looked inviting with smells of delicious Italian food wafting into the street. It was difficult to choose, but we decided on one called Ristorante Taberna Patrizi e Plebei.

We by-passed diners who were happily enjoying their evening meals. The atmosphere was electric with their lively chatter and the clinking of glasses or cutlery on plates. We descended stairs into the cellar which was decorated with paintings of historical figures on the walls and ceilings, columns with carved capitals at the top, plush seating and circular tables down the middle and on either side. It was a good choice because the salad, to start, followed by pizza, breaded chicken breast and roast veal was scrummy, the wine was full-bodied, the staff, friendly, and the decor, beautiful. The only thing we didn’t like was the bill at the end! 😉 But, what the hell, we were on holiday, so the expense was justified.

After we’d finished, we walked further along Via del Lavatore to Piazza di Trevi and on the left is Chiesa Rettoria Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio a Trevi, a lovely Baroque church which pales in comparison to the Trevi fountain. But, I still found it worthy of a photograph.

It sure is a sight to behold when you come to the end of the street, not only is the Trevi fountain huge, incredibly detailed and very striking, it’s also built onto a palace!! As you do! 😉 Most definitely in Rome you do! 😉

Palazzo Poli is the backdrop for this majestic fountain with Corinthian columns and triumphal arch built onto the facade.

The theme is the “Taming of the Waters” which tells the story of Oceanus taming a herd of sea horses. The use of strategically placed lighting creates a wonderful vision of light and shadows on the rock and in the crystal clear water.

It’s the largest Baroque fountain in the city and one of the most famous across the world. As with the Colosseum, the Trevi fountain is one thing that visitor’s to Rome have on their list of things to see, us included, but, boy, I didn’t expect to see so many people! On the first day, after we’d been to the Vatican, we walked to see this impressive work of art and there were so many people there then, it was difficult to get photographs and just sit and enjoy the view. And this evening was no different, I think the best time to see it would be really early in the morning, or, failing that, rent a room right on Piazza di Trevi! I think that would be a tad expensive, but imagine the view from your balcony while you’re having breakfast! Next time, maybe! Despite the hordes of people, we managed to get a spot close to the fountain, so we could throw a coin in, which is supposed to guarantee your return to Rome. 😉

Apparently, over €3,000 is thrown in each day and, during 2016, €1.4 m was collected and it’s used to help the poorer people of Rome. Unfortunately, people have been known to steal the money before it’s been collected which is, of course, illegal. I don’t really know how anyone could even begin to attempt it, there are security guards all over the place!

These photos aren’t the best quality, my phone is rubbish when it comes to taking photos at night, but I think you can still see the magnificence of this opulent fountain. I know it’s cheating a bit, but I bought a postcard because I wanted an image without hundreds of people. And what a picture, don’t you agree?!

Next Time: Piazza del Popolo, Piazza Spagna and Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II

Florence

We left Rome on the Friday morning, after buying train tickets from the most unhelpful, unfriendly person. I really think she is in the wrong job to be serving customers. A smile is all it takes! Undeterred, we had a while to wait, so we had coffee and watched people hurrying through the station from where we sat, upstairs in the cafe.

The train ride was lovely, travelling through the Italian countryside into the rolling green pastures and hills of Tuscany, which we never saw much of, as we all dozed off, all this sightseeing is tiring! Before long we arrived in Florence, the capital city of the Tuscan region and brimming with Renaissance art, grand buildings and monuments, and some wonderful streets that are just fantastic to explore.

We’d booked a hotel at Hotel Anna’s and, after a short walk to the hotel, we arrived to find that there was no reception and a flight of stairs leading up to the 4th floor and the hotel. I started to climb the stairs with my mum following, already in despair because of the pain in her hip. Luckily, a man from another hotel in the same building had spotted us, and seeing my mum was struggling, called us back and told us there was a room available on the ground floor. We couldn’t thank him enough and we checked in to our triple room, which was full of character, large and airy with antique furniture, a huge bathroom with sunken bath, and the walls painted a bright blue.

We dumped our bags, and went out to explore our new surroundings. Florence is a city with narrow streets, many of which are limited traffic zones, so it’s a great place for walking around safely. The city is also said to be one of the most beautiful in the world and it’s not hard to understand why.

There are so many side streets that you can explore and the historic part of the city isn’t big enough to get lost. We walked along Via Faenza and at the end, around the corner, was the most amazing sight I think I might have ever seen.

Santa Maria del Fiore or the Duomo. A striking domed cathedral whose marble pastel-coloured panels glimmer in the sunshine. The cathedral can be seen from miles away. You’ve also got the Campanile and the Baptistry to admire and they are just as stunning.

The facade of the cathedral is ornately decorated with carvings and mosaics and high above, in between the spectacular rose windows, are twelve statues of the Apostles.

Not only that, almost reaching the skies, is the largest dome in the world which, if you’re brave enough to go up there, boasts views that will take your breath away. Views aside, the cathedral alone will make you gasp in astonishment! I guarantee it 🙂

We sat in the shadows the Duomo and ate lunch and, afterwards, we continued on our exploration to Piazza della Signoria, a huge square dominated by the Romanesque-style Palazzo Vecchio and the Loggia dei Lanzi with its arches under which statues depicting scenes from mythology are displayed.

You’ll also see the statues of David by Michelangelo and Hercules and Cacus by Baccio Bandinelli.

If you walk passed Palazzo Vecchio, you’ll see the entrance to the Uffizi Gallery, in the corner. We didn’t venture into the gallery, the courtyard was doing a fine job of being an outdoor gallery in its own right. A rectangular-shaped space with columns and arches and other architecturally pleasing elements, as well as statues of famous painters, architects and other historical figures. Florence was turning out to be no less amazing than Rome and we’d only been there for two hours.

We found ourselves at the River Arno and gazing out over the water to Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge). This Medieval stone bridge doesn’t have statues, it has a variety of jewellers, art and souvenir shops on either side, once a common sight on the bridges of Italy.

We left the river and walked slowly back towards the city, stopped for coffee (wine!) and went back to the hotel for a rest before going out for dinner at Cornelius Trattoria Pizzeria, a cute restaurant that we’d spotted earlier in the day, with fabulous Impressionist-style paintings on the walls. I don’t think we had a bad meal all throughout our trip and this place didn’t disappoint either. We left there and had our obligatory “one-for-the-road” drink before heading back to the hotel for the night.

The following morning, after breakfast, we went for a last wander around the market to buy souvenirs and ate lunch on the street, always a winner in my book, there’s something about al fresco dining, I just love it.

We were only in Florence for one night, so our time was limited, but what we did see was fantastic, it was much more relaxed and it made a pleasant change from the tumult of Rome.

Next up: We’re back in Rome and exploring the city some more 🙂

The Roman Forum

From the Colosseum, the Roman Forum is seconds away, so I walked towards the entrance only to be met by a really long queue. The ticket for the Colosseum includes the Roman Forum, but by this time it was late morning and the crowds had started to arrive. I noticed a pathway to my left where a lot of people were walking, so thinking that there might be another entrance, I followed. But, it only led to a dead-end, with no second entrance! So, I back-tracked and joined the end of the line and, thankfully, It didn’t take that long to get in.

The Roman Forum is chock-a-block with ancient ruins of important buildings that were once the part of everyday life in Rome. Most of the city’s important events would be held there and, it seems, that every important person had their own statue or monument dedicated to them.

It’s a huge piece of land which includes not only the forum itself, but the Palantine Hill too, where you can see the remains of the imperial palace. I never made it as far as that, I ran out of time, but I did venture up the hill, I just didn’t cover it all.

The area is just beautiful, you have the mysterious ruins, which could tell a thousand tales, and the green grassy areas dotted with bright yellow flowers, umbrella pines, cypress and olive trees, and the blooming pinks and purples of shrubs give the forum an added air of calm and tranquility.

There were so many people, as always in these kind of places, but what was nice about the forum was that it was large enough to be able to find a quiet spot for uninterrupted views.

I spent over an hour just wandering around amidst the ruins. From the Palantine Hill, you get splendid views looking out over Rome.

Back down in the forum, I walked along Via Sacra, once used for triumphal processions, in the shadows of statues and temples, it really is like a step back in time.

It started to rain, but that didn’t worry me, I just carried on taking loads of photographs, until my camera decided to pack up, I had forgotten to recharge the battery! I still managed to capture quite a few shots though and as I made my way out of the forum towards the Vittorio Emanuele II monument to meet mum and dad, I thought how lucky I was to be able to experience a fascinating piece of history.

As I approached the monument, I was greeted by my parents, who had been waiting on the steps in the rain. We went in search of food and shared a lovely pizza and bottle of wine. We started the week with just a glass or two, but two days in and we were ordering bottles! Living so far away, I miss out on being sociable with my folks, so it was just wonderful to share this time with them.

Tip: Book online and arrive early to avoid the queues. The ticket for the Colosseum is valid for 2 days and includes the Roman Forum. This is the website I used to buy tickets.

We’re off to Florence next 🙂

The Colosseum

Only the second day in Rome and it felt like we’d done so much already. Today we’re off to the Colosseum, a huge oval amphitheatre in the centre of the city. Emperor Vespasian started the massive feat in 72 AD, but it was Titus who completed the job in 80 AD with Domitian making modifications around 81-96 AD. Although modified, it’s still the largest amphitheatre ever to have been built.

In its heyday, from classical times right up to the 6th century, the Colosseum saw between 50,000-80,000 spectators come to cheer on spectacular shows such as sea battles and reenactments of dramas, and the slightly more gruesome gladiator contests, animal hunts, and executions.

Since then, the structure has been destroyed by earthquakes, and robbers have helped themselves to the stone, but it’s still the one thing that most people think about when they think about Rome. Throughout the ages the Colosseum has been used in a variety of ways from housing and workshops to a cemetery and castle, but these days it’s one of the most visited attractions in the city.

One interesting thing I learned, post visit, is that the Colosseum is the symbol of the international campaign against capital punishment. In the evening, the illuminated amphitheatre changes from white to gold whenever someone’s sentence is commuted or a city abolishes the death penalty anywhere in the world.

There are three stories with tiered seating, the higher seats were for the poorest of people while the emperors and elite class would have ring-side seats, at the north and south ends, for the best views over the arena. Underneath the arena is the hypogeum, which means underground, and that’s where the slaves and animals were kept.

As we did with the Vatican City, we’d bought tickets in advance, but when we arrived we were instantly accosted by ticket touts. I think five separate people asked us if we wanted tickets before we even got to the entrance. One guy told us that our tickets wouldn’t allow us to access the arena, which was probably true, but as we had already upgraded tickets the day before, my dad resoundingly replied “We’ll take our chances mate!”

The way in was much more relaxed than the Vatican and, after I’d picked up my audio guide, we were greeted by another amazing sight in front of us. The audio guide was useful and there were designated points where you can stop and listen, and the audio tells you what you’re looking at. But, I kept getting them mixed up, so I’d be at point five listening to point six. It didn’t appear to be on silent either, so when I played it, even with headphones, everyone else could hear it. Technology and I are sometimes not a good mix, so I gave up. In any case, I was so busy trying to work the damn thing, I forgot to look around!

We walked around the lower and upper levels looking at the ruins, trying to imagine what life would have been like back then. Where the upper classes would have sat, the roar of the crowd, the massacres of men and animals. We only have TV series and movies to give us an idea of how things were, but I imagine the atmosphere would have been electric, albeit the events slightly distasteful.

We didn’t spend as long here as we’d done at the Vatican, so once we had gone to the gift shop to buy a book and some postcards, and looked at the views of the Forum and the Arch of Constantine, we left and walked a short distance to have coffee and cake. On the way, we came across a beggar who appeared to have no legs. However, as we walked passed him and looked back, we noticed he was kneeling on the step with his feet resting on the ground behind. Our initial pity turned to amusement at his duplicitous attempt to trick people into feeling sorry for him and parting with their money! I wonder how much money he actually received! He was in such an uncomfortable position he would have been aching all over by the end of the day.

Afterwards, I parted company with my mum and dad and wandered over to the Roman Forum. My parents had already been to the forum, so we planned to meet two hours later at the Vittorio Emanuele II monument, also known as the wedding cake because of its two-tiers, white marble, and its quadrigae on top. It’s not the most appealing building, but it can be seen towering above the rooftops from almost anywhere.

Tip: There are Roman soldiers around the Colosseum (and other attractions across the city) who are friendly enough when they ask if you want to have a photograph taken with them. That’s fine as long as you don’t mind paying for the privilege, something they fail to mention up front.

Next up; The Roman Forum