Christmas in Hikkaduwa

August 24, 2019

After leaving Bangkok on 18th December last year, I spent 10 days on the shores of Hikkaduwa on the beautiful island of Sri Lanka.

Since first visiting Sri Lanka in 1993, this place has always been a favourite destination of mine. I just love the culture and the people and it’s one of the most fascinating and beautiful places I have ever been to.

At the airport, I was picked up by my driver, Sameera, and we drove 2 hours south to Hikkaduwa on the west coast. Not only does Sameera do airport runs, but he also offers tours all around Sri Lanka. Check out Sameeratours if you are considering visiting.

I arrived at my guest house, got changed and walked all of 3 seconds to Funky de Bar where my friend works. It was so nice to sit down with the Indian Ocean in front of me, devouring devilled prawns, washed down with a glass of refreshing white wine.

And that’s where I stayed for the rest of the day watching the surfers ride the waves and the stunning sunset in the sky. Let me tell you that the waves in Hikkaduwa are big which is why the place is so popular with surfers. Mere mortals like you and me, beware – there are dangerous rip tides close to shore plus the waves can whip your legs out from under you and trap you in their watery embrace. Take it from someone who has experienced it – I felt like I was in a washing machine (not that I have ever been in a washing machine), but it wasn’t a very pleasant experience and I was coughing up salt water for a while afterwards! I had to sit back down on the beach and calm myself!

The next day, I wrote some articles and in the evening I went to the Bookworm Library for Sri Lankan curry. I had been here the previous January, so I knew of this small place and I knew that the food is absolutely divine. Small plates of delectableness – jack fruit curry, lentils, potato curry, pumpkin curry and, my absolute favourite, aubergine curry. I love this place so much, I went 5 nights out of 10!

Thursday was Funky de Bar’s weekly party where everyone has a fun night dancing and listening to music, loud enough so your heart feels like it’s going to burst out of your chest. Funky de Bar on Thursdays is the busiest bar along this stretch of beach – you see the same old faces all out for a good time. It’s lots of fun!

The following day, I took a walk to a restaurant called Sunset because I’d heard their sandwiches were really good. I ordered a chicken sandwich, but it was far from delicious. It didn’t even look that nice. Two limp pieces of white, unbuttered bread with small, diced bits of chicken and not even enough meat to fill it. It was so disappointing. I found out later, you need to ask for a Jaffle – which is the Sri Lankan version of a toastie and much tastier!

The next few days were spent much the same, writing in the morning, afternoons on the beach and dinner and drinks in the evening. It really is such a lovely way of life – if only we didn’t have to work to earn money!

Christmas day arrived and I did exactly the same as I had up until then – work, beach and bar. I was asked later if I minded spending Christmas day on my own and I really didn’t. I love my own company and even though my friend and I had fallen out over a misunderstanding, I was perfectly happy on my own.

On the last night and friends again – Nalin and I went for dinner at the Shiny Lakeside Resort for more devilled prawns. It is a lovely spot, although both times I have been here, it’s been dark! Next time, I’ll go during the day, so I can see what the lake actually looks like 😉 Afterwards, we went back to the beach and had a few drinks. It really was a lovely way to spend the last night.