Happy New Year! Let’s hope 2019 will bring joy, happiness, and new adventures!
I arrived back in the UK in time for New Year and saw the beginning of 2019 at my brother and sister-in-law’s party with a family and a few of their friends. It was fun, although I was in bed not long after the clock struck midnight – those damn whisky shots!
After a few more nights in my hometown, I arrived in Valencia full of hope and excitement. This was to be my new home!
I have never been to Valencia before, but the more I read about it – it seemed to be right up my alley. Lots of art and culture and plenty more to explore!
El Micalet, Valencia
I had given myself a week – thinking back, that was a little overambitious – but a week it was and I wanted to find a place in that time, so I could start my new life.
I found a place, a lovely triplex in Malvarrosa – close to the beach – and it was with excitement I told the guy I’d take it. However, his agent told him to ask me for 11 months rent (7,150 EUR) upfront because I didn’t have income in Spain. That was the end of that!
Malvarrosa, Valencia
Then, I found another agent who took me to look at more apartments, but, again, one wanted 6 months deposit, plus his fee, plus 1 month’s (bail) payment – making a grand total of 6,000 EUR. I told him I didn’t have that much money, so forgot about that!
I found out that it is illegal to ask for any more than 2/3 months as a deposit, but there has been an influx of people renting apartments in Valencia and not paying their rent, so many of the landlords are asking for these ridiculous amounts up front. I get it – they are only trying to protect their properties etc., but who has that kind of money to pay up front!? I don’t!
I was only in Valencia for 2 weeks, and for most of that I was stressed, upset, and very frustrated. There were tears, on several occasions. I was sleeping for 12 hours a day, comfort eating, and not doing any exercise!
So, I made the decision to go back to my hometown to reassess and get more money behind me. If I’d stayed in Spain, I would be penniless, not to mention, fat!
My bottom line was “what the hell have I just done – why did I leave Bangkok?”
Even the language was a problem – not many people speak English in Valencia. I was glad that my friend was there because I found it all very intimidating – believe it or not, more people speak English in Bangkok! I’m not shying away from learning Spanish, far from it, and that’s another thing on my list of things to do back home!
I spent the last few days in Valencia getting to know the city. My friend and I went to the City of Arts and Sciences. A stunning complex with several futuristic-type buildings, dedicated to the arts and sciences. (I will write about this at some point)
City of Arts and Sciences, Valencia
City of Arts and Sciences, Valencia
City of Arts and Sciences, Valencia
City of Arts and Sciences, Valencia
I took a stroll around El Carmen, whose small lanes and alleyways are adorned with street art. It was great to just wander and see what I came across.
Street Art, El Carmen, Valencia
Street Art, El Carmen, Valencia
Street Art, El Carmen, Valencia
Street Art, El Carmen, Valencia
Street Art, El Carmen, Valencia
Street Art, El Carmen, Valencia
Street Art, El Carmen, Valencia
Street Art, El Carmen, Valencia
On the way to meet my friend, I came across Torres de Serranos – one of Valencia’s old gateways. I climbed the steps for some awesome views.
Views from Torres de Serranos, Valencia
Views from Torres de Serranos, Valencia
Views from Torres de Serranos, Valencia
I really enjoyed Valencia, apart from all the stress, and it’s a place I can see myself living. I’ve simply taken a sideways step to get me back on track.
Plaça de l’Almoina, Valencia
River Turia, Valencia
I’ve given myself 6 months to get back to where I was! And, if my motto is correct I shouldn’t have any problems!
Everything works out OK in the end! 🙂
About The Changing Seasons
The Changing Seasons is a monthly challenge where bloggers around the world share what’s been happening in their month.
If you would like to join me and the others in this challenge, here are the guidelines:
The Changing Seasons Version One (photographic)
Each month, post 5-20 photos in a gallery that you feel represent your month
Don’t use photos from your archive. Only new shots.
Tag your posts with #MonthlyPhotoChallenge and #TheChangingSeasons so that others can find them
The Changing Seasons Version Two (you choose the format):
Each month, post a photo, recipe, painting, drawing, video, whatever that you feel says something about your month
Don’t use archive stuff. Only new material!
Tag your posts with #MonthlyPhotoChallenge and #TheChangingSeasons so others can find them.
December was a major life changing month. I left Thailand forever! It’s a decision I made over a year ago, and the time finally came when I would pack up my life, into 2 boxes and 2 suitcases, and leave my home for the past 10 years.
I spent the month packing, visiting old places, and spending time with my BFF, Chris. I said goodbye to my work mates and friends who have crept into my life over the years – and that was tough enough, but it was saying goodbye to Chris that was the most heart-wrenching.
Me and Chris
We spent as much time as possible together as my departure day grew nearer. I had butterflies in my tummy for weeks before, and as the time went on those butterflies turned to a feeling of dread – dread that I was leaving Bangkok and everything I love about the place, and dread because I would be leaving my friend – I (we) felt sick!
It’s not like I am never going to see him again, he’s leaving too, and I’ll see him in Europe before long, but we spent so much time together, he really was (is) a big part of my life.
We managed not to cry as we said our goodbyes, I wanted our last few days to be full of joy and happy memories. But, there were tears and I knew exactly the point I would start crying – when I was on the plane taking off!
As we sped down the runway, I was pressed up against the window, tears rolling down my face as I watched Bangkok disappear from view. Once I couldn’t see it anymore, the feeling of dread I’d had in the pit of my stomach disappeared and I started to look forward to my new life.
I spent the next 10 days in Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka where I passed the time working (yes, I am a fully fledged full time writer now!), lazing on the beach and enjoying the most delectable Sri Lankan curry (5 times in the space of 10 days!)
Sri Lankan Curry
Then, I flew to the UK for the next 10 days and spent time with my nearest and dearest before flying to Valencia where I planned to set up a new home and get on with the next chapter of my life!
That was the plan at least, but that’s another story!
About The Changing Seasons
The Changing Seasons is a monthly challenge where bloggers around the world share what’s been happening in their month.
If you would like to join me and the others in this challenge, here are the guidelines:
The Changing Seasons Version One (photographic)
Each month, post 5-20 photos in a gallery that you feel represent your month
Don’t use photos from your archive. Only new shots.
Tag your posts with #MonthlyPhotoChallenge and #TheChangingSeasons so that others can find them
The Changing Seasons Version Two (you choose the format):
Each month, post a photo, recipe, painting, drawing, video, whatever that you feel says something about your month
Don’t use archive stuff. Only new material!
Tag your posts with #MonthlyPhotoChallenge and #TheChangingSeasons so others can find them.
I started the month of November with a friend of mine who was in town for a few days and it just happened to be my week off.
We had a fabulous time together and we went to some really nice restaurants and bars in the evenings. Places that I never usually go to – so it was a real treat.
Views from Vertigo and Moon Bar, Bangkok
I also took a trip to Muang Boran – or Ancient City– somewhere I have been meaning to go for ages. The park is shaped like Thailand and covers some 200 acres. It’s full of monuments and temples from every corner of the country. It’s too big to walk around, so I hired a golf buggy which was fun! I still never made it all the way round, but I saw a lot!
Muang Boran (Ancient City) Bangkok
Muang Boran (Ancient City) Bangkok
Muang Boran (Ancient City) Bangkok
The park is full of trees, plants, lakes, decorative bridges, and statues of everything imaginable. Some of the structures no longer exist in Thailand, so this place acts like an open-air museum of things that once were. It’s a really fabulous day out!
Muang Boran (Ancient City) Bangkok
Muang Boran (Ancient City) Bangkok
The best part was a temple at the top of some stairs which gave splendid views across the park and Bangkok.
Muang Boran (Ancient City) Bangkok
In other news, one of my favourite restaurants is returning. Hemingways was my go-to place to have lunch and enjoy their all day happy hour! Sadly, it was replaced with a sterile looking hotel that nobody cares about – except those money grabbers! Anyway, it’s re-opening, but I no longer live in Bangkok, so I’ll just have to wait until I go back for a holiday! It looks like they are trying to re-create it as it was before.
A work in progress
How it will look in January 2019! Source: Hemingways
I entered Exodus’ 7 world wonders competition. I had to choose 7 places from a list of given destinations and whoever wins gets to go to these places – 1 every year over a 7 year period! Here’s hoping!
Exodus’ 7 World Wonders Competition
My favourite building in Bangkok – Mahanakhon finally opened their observation deck on floors 74-77. I planned to go there before I left, but I didn’t have time, so another thing to add to my list when I return!
Mahanakhon, Bangkok
My friend Chris and I took a final day out in Banglamphu. To get there, we took the boat along the Saen Saeb canal all the way from Bangkapi to Pathumwan. We got a taxi the rest of the way and once in Banglamphu we walked over 11 km trying to look for a small street full of Buddha statues – which Chris had seen somewhere. We weren’t successful, but it was fun trying.
Saen Saeb Canal, Bangkok
Buddhas in Banglamphu
We had Indian food at Santi, one of my favourite restaurants in that area, followed by a few drinks at a couple of bars. In Superflow, we sat and enjoyed the resident band for over 5 hours wholeheartedly getting involved with giving them requests for songs! It was such a great day out – we always have a fabulous and fun time when we are together.
Santi Indian Restaurant, Bangkok. Source: Chris Wotton
And here we are half way through December already!
Wishing everyone a very merry Christmas! 🙂
About The Changing Seasons
The Changing Seasons is a monthly challenge where bloggers around the world share what’s been happening in their month.
If you would like to join me and the others in this challenge, here are the guidelines:
The Changing Seasons Version One (photographic)
Each month, post 5-20 photos in a gallery that you feel represent your month
Don’t use photos from your archive. Only new shots.
Tag your posts with #MonthlyPhotoChallenge and #TheChangingSeasons so that others can find them
The Changing Seasons Version Two (you choose the format):
Each month, post a photo, recipe, painting, drawing, video, whatever that you feel says something about your month
Don’t use archive stuff. Only new material!
Tag your posts with #MonthlyPhotoChallenge and #TheChangingSeasons so others can find them.
At last, the rainy season is behind us and now we are looking forward to the best season of all – the cool season. Warm days, cooler evenings, and less humidity. It really is the best time to be in Thailand. Have we seen any evidence of this? Not even so much as a sniff! Hopefully it will get cooler as the days go on. One can but hope!
In October, I went to the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre to see an exhibition called Imaginarium, by Oleg Shuplyak. A very talented artist who paints pictures within pictures. Most of them are of the faces of famous people from history, which are not always apparent when you look up close. I had to stand back before I could make the faces out. He has, very cleverly, hidden features in his paintings – a bird, a house, even a person turns out to be part of the face. You could, and I did, stand there for a long time, giggling each time another part of the painting becomes apparent.
Imaginarium by Oleg Shuplyak
I also went in search of street art which was part of the Pipat Banglamphu Street Art Festival. It was such fun to wander around the streets following the map. There were 12 pieces of art and the walk took me along main roads, and down small, leafy alleys, hidden from tourists and filled with friendly locals. Some of the locals said hello and asked me where I was from, but all of them were curious about why I was there – made apparent by their stares. I went down the wrong way in places, by-passing them more than once, which only added to their curiosity. It was so nice to explore new places (even though they were just a stone’s throw from the busy Banglamphu area.)
Pipat Banglamphu Street Art Festival
Pipat Banglamphu Street Art Festival
Pipat Banglamphu Street Art Festival
The rainy season was in full swing in October and I went out one day to give some old clothes to a charity across the other side of Bangkok. Once I had done that, I got on a motorbike to take me to my favourite place for lunch. No sooner had we set off, the heavens opened and torrential rain soon flooded the busy streets. I was soaked to the skin, so I gave up, got off the bike and sheltered in a nearby market until the storm subsided. Once it did, I walked the rest of the way to the restaurant – the rain hadn’t quite stopped and I looked like I’d just got out of the bath, fully clothed! I didn’t mind that so much – it’s nice walking in the rain sometimes. 🙂
Caught in the rain!
By the time I got there, I was hot and sticky, drenched, and my shoes were filled with water. It didn’t take long to dry off and I enjoyed the rest of my afternoon watching the changing colours as the day became evening. The simple pleasures in life are the best ones! 🙂
The changing colours of the day
The changing colours of the day
About The Changing Seasons
The Changing Seasons is a monthly challenge where bloggers around the world share what’s been happening in their month.
If you would like to join me and the others in this challenge, here are the guidelines:
The Changing Seasons Version One (photographic)
Each month, post 5-20 photos in a gallery that you feel represent your month
Don’t use photos from your archive. Only new shots.
Tag your posts with #MonthlyPhotoChallenge and #TheChangingSeasons so that others can find them
The Changing Seasons Version Two (you choose the format):
Each month, post a photo, recipe, painting, drawing, video, whatever that you feel says something about your month
Don’t use archive stuff. Only new material!
Tag your posts with #MonthlyPhotoChallenge and #TheChangingSeasons so others can find them.
In Rome, a great way to explore the city is on foot. I did exactly that with my parents, earlier this year. We spent our days visiting the main sights, like the Colosseum, the Forum, and the Vatican City and, in between, we walked along the streets where we happened upon a few of the city’s wonderful piazzas – each one different, but every one charming. So, here’s my guide to the best piazzas in Rome.
Piazza Navona
Piazza Navona was my favourite, if only because it was the first one we found. We’d just been to the Vatican and we’d walked through the streets and just came across this beautiful square. With street artists selling their creations, tourists vying for the best spot to take their holiday snaps, and locals chattering over an ice-cream – it’s a vibrant place with a fabulous atmosphere. There are hints of the past all around with its Baroque-style churches and palaces, and 3 impressive fountains which date back to the 16th century. It’s a real pleasure to sit in one of the restaurants, with a glass of wine over lunch, and just lap it all up.
Piazza della Repubblica is at the top of Via Nazionale and not far from where we were staying. Now a busy roundabout, this piazza is full of history. The shape is semi-circular and part of the piazza was once part of the Baths of Diocletian, as is the Basilica of St Mary of the Angels and Martyrs. In the middle, the obligatory fountain – The Fountain of the Naiads. The fountain was built in 1870 and its 4 statues of the Naiads were built in 1901 by Mario Rutelli. You can see the Nymphs of the Lakes, Rivers, Oceans, and Underground Waters. In the middle, there is a statue of Glaucus, who was supposed to have saved many a sailor from the force of storms at sea. Around the outside of the piazza, the porticos that can be seen were built in the 19th century to commemorate the buildings that stood long ago.
The day we came across this piazza, we were on a mission to explore Rome by metro. We had already been to the opposite side of the city at Piazza del Popolo and we had made our way to the Spanish Steps. We took the metro to Vittorio Emanuele and found ourselves at Piazza Vittorio Emanuele or Piazza Vittorio. Surrounded with portico-ed buildings, this piazza is the largest in Rome. In the middle of the square is a green space known as Giardini Nicola Calipari. It’s a shame that it was a little run down with overgrown grass and the fountain not working, but it serves as a place to rest your feet for 5 minutes if you are exploring. We were lucky on the day we visited because there was a colourful Hindu festival going out, so we stopped for a while to watch before heading off in the direction of the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore.
On our last day in Rome, we’d walked over the Tiber River to Isola Tiberina and we had walked back through the streets until we got to the delightful Piazza Campo de’ Fiori. The name means “field of flowers’ which dates back to when the area was nothing but meadows throughout the middle ages. The streets leading onto the piazza are all named after trades – Via dei Balestrari (crossbow makers) and Via dei Guibbonari (tailors) etc. These days there is a bustling market which sells fruit, vegetables, cheeses, and meats, but, in the distant past, it was used as a horse market. Campo de’ Fiori was also used as a place for execution and many a poor soul was burned there. The philosopher, Giordano Bruno among them. Bruno became posthumously renowned for the concept of free thought and new scientific points of view. You can see the statue of Bruno in the middle of the square.
Enter through the gateway that is Porta del Popolo and you’ll be greeted to a large circular space with fountains and one of the tallest Egyptian obelisks in Rome. The name means “people’s square” which is fitting because it is a place where people can congregate and enjoy each other’s company. Piazza del Popolo was designed in the neo-classical style by Giuseppe Valadier and it links onto the Via Corso which used to be an ancient Roman road called Via Lata.
There are many trees here, making it one of the most attractive piazzas in Rome. The Fountain of the Obelisk is in the middle with its 4 attending lion statues. The Fountain of Neptune and the Fountain of Rome between the Tiber and Aniene flank either side.
We stood and watched some young Sunday morning footballers in action amidst a chattering audience, before climbing the steps to the Pincio Gardens where we could look get a good look at the piazza from our vantage point.
This little piazza is overshadowed by the well-known Spanish steps that lead down to it, but if you wander around there are little gems to be found. John Keats House has been turned into a museum or there’s Babington Tea Rooms which have been in business since 1893. In the centre of the piazza is the Fountain of the Longboat and hundreds of tourists taking photographs of the famous steps.
Walk away from the throng of people and you’ll find people selling chestnuts or street cafes in the nearby Piazza Mignanelli which is a continuation of Piazza di Spagna. There you’ll find the Column of the Immaculate Conception with its statue of the Virgin Mary at the top and statues of David, Isaiah, Ezekiel, and Moses at the base. The column was erected by the city’s firemen and, every year, the fire department places flowers on the monument with the motto: Flammas domamus, donamus corda or we stop fires, giving our hearts.
This charming piazza was originally jam-packed with shops until Pope Eugenius had them all removed and the area paved in the 15th century. In the shadows of the pantheon, Piazza della Rotonda has always been a hive of activity. A traveller passing through in 1819 described it as:
“Being distinguished (from other parts of Rome) by the gay appearance of the fruit and cake stalls, dressed with flowers and lighted with paper lanterns”
Another traveller, Charlotte Anne Eaton, thought the complete opposite:
“Surrounded by all that is most revolting to the senses, distracted by incessant uproar, pestered with a crowd of clamorous beggars, and stuck fast in the congregate filth of every description that covers the slippery pavement. Nothing resembling such as hole as this could exist in England, nor is it possible that an English imagination can conceive a combination of such disgusting dirt, such filthy odours and foul puddles, such as that which fills the vegetable market in the Piazza della Rotonda at Rome”
Each to their own I guess, but maybe Ms Eaton should have stayed in England!
Thankfully, there wasn’t any disgusting dirt or filthy odours when we sat on the steps of the fountain admiring the beautiful Pantheon and watching the world go by.
The piazza’s fountain, called the Fontana della Pantheon, was built by Giacomo Della Porta in 1575 and has a red marble Egyptian obelisk rising up from the middle. The obelisk was originally built by Pharaoh Ramses II and, after it was re-discovered in 1374, it was moved to Piazza della Rotonda in 1711.
Most people come to Bangkok for its food, its temples, its vibrant nightlife, and its general laid back attitude to life. And why not? It’s a fabulous place for first-time visitors to be introduced to Thailand. But, before long, the chaos, the traffic, and the constant battering of your senses starts to get to you and it’s time to move on.
If you dare to stay a little longer, you realise there’s a whole lot more to the capital than meets the eye. You really have just scratched the surface of what there is to see here. If you’re interested in more sedate activities and getting off the beaten track, delve a little deeper and go in search of these 4 heritage homes in Bangkok.
M.R Kukrit’s Heritage Home
Hidden in the back streets of Sathorn is the former home of M.R Kukrit, or Mom Rajawongse Kukrit (1911-1995), Thailand’s 13th Prime Minister. Not only was he involved with politics, but he was also a prolific writer and artist and his home pays tribute to his passions. You can still see many of his personal artefacts, including books and paintings. The Department of Fine Arts decided this house should give the impression that it’s still lived in, with everything laid out as it was when Mr Kukrit was alive. As well as 5 beautiful teak buildings, which are of traditional Thai design, there’s a lily pond, a garden with lots of green shrubs and colourful flowers, a lawn and pavilion at the back. It’s a little slice of peaceful heaven.
The Bangkok Folk or Bangkokian Museum is another little gem, concealed from view in Bang Rak. It was the home of the Suravadees, a middle-class family, who lived there in the early twentieth century. The house was inherited by Varaporn Suravadee who, before she died, intervened with building work that was planned next door and raised money to stop it in the hope that she could preserve her museum for people to continue to learn about her family’s past. The folk museum is full of relics – old photographs, medical equipment, magazines, even a couple of things that date back to King Rama V’s time. It really is a treasure trove of wonders.
Bangkok Folk Museum, Bangkok
Address: 273 Charoen Krung Road, Soi 43, Bangrak, Bangkok,10500
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 10.00am to 4.00pm
Kamthieng House Museum
This museum was built in 1848 in Chiang Mai by Mae Saed, great-granddaughter of one of the rulers of the Lanna Kingdom. The structure was taken to Bangkok and reassembled and it’s now located in the gardens of the Siam Society. It was opened in 1966 by HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Kamthieng House is a traditional Lanna house – raised on stilts and made of wood – with tools and items that were used in the Lanna way of life. There are also videos throughout the house telling the story of how day-to-day life played out in a Lanna village. Be warned though! It’s believed that the ghosts of the past still roam the house.
Kamthieng House, Bangkok/Source: Wikipedia
Address: 131 Asoke Montrii Road, Bangkok, 10110
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 9.00am to 5.00pm
Jim Thompson’s House
More centrally located, is Jim Thompson’s house, a series of beautiful wooden structures which are full of his possessions. Jim Thompson was an American businessman and architect who came to Bangkok in the 1940s. He established the Thai Silk Company and, as a keen art enthusiast, he made many trips around South East Asia to collect an abundance of art pieces. He travelled far and wide, and in 1959 he built this house to live in and to show off his collection. Unfortunately, Jim Thompson mysteriously disappeared in 1967. His body has never been found, but with all the wall hangings, statues, and antiques inside, you can get a feel for what kind of man he was.
Jim Thompson’s House, Bangkok/Source Wikipedia
Address: 6 Soi Kaseman 2, Rama I Road, Bangkok, 10330
Hours: Daily, 9.00am to 6.00pm
It really is fun to explore Bangkok! There are so many fascinating things to see, but it’s the less well-known attractions that are really worth hunting out. If you would like help finding them let me know 🙂
Salvador Dali is one of my favourite painters, not only for his surrealism and imagination, but it’s so much fun to look at his paintings. Talk about tricking your mind – he definitely succeeds in doing that. Swans Reflecting Elephants is a classic optical illusion.
Swans Reflecting Elephants – Salvador Dali/Source: www.dalipaintings.com
You’re looking at 3 swans on a lake, but their reflections turn into elephants – the clue is in the name! Look at it some more and you’ll suddenly realise that the tree trunks behind the swans are reflected as the elephants legs. Move your eyes away from the central focal point and see what else you can find. Can you see the man? The first time I saw this painting, I was blown away. The creativity and vision to be able to produce a piece like this is more than a little impressive.
I love Dali’s work, so imagine my excitement when I went to see an art exhibition at the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre a couple of weeks ago.
Let me introduce – Oleg Shuplyak – a very talented artist from Ukraine and his Bangkok exhibition – Imaginarium (great title, don’t you think?)
Imaginarium by Oleg Shuplyak
Since 1991, Shuplyak has been showing his work at exhibitions across the world and he is a member of the National Union of Artists of Ukraine. I’d never heard of this artist before, but he’s definitely on my radar now.
Self-Portrait
The reason I compare Shuplyak to Dali is because he (Shuplyak) is best known for his optical illusions – an element that Dali used in his paintings. His paintings are portraits of famous people with hidden images – the hidden elements are very Daliesque!
Imagine – John Lennon
Every piece of work is very bright and colourful with so much detail and, of course, his trademark “painting within a painting.” Like with Dali’s paintings, the first time you look up close, you can see certain elements, but the more you look and widen your focus across the whole canvas, more things become apparent. People see things differently, and I couldn’t see the faces at first, but after stepping back they immediately popped out of the painting. Once your mind focuses on one thing, it’s difficult “not” to see it. That’s the beauty of this kind of art.
I found myself smiling more than once at this guy’s sheer brilliance. I scrutinised the faces and what was a mouth or an eye, turned out to be a bird or a house.
Hemingway
I kept chuckling to myself too because as I was looking at the fine details and the paint strokes, I’d move my eyes to the right and I could suddenly see…. well what can you see? It’s really fascinating.
Double portrait of Van Gogh
It really was fun to see his creations and to challenge myself in trying to find everything that was hidden. Just like Dali was, Oleg Shuplyak is a brilliant artist. Their work has been, and is, such an inspiration for other artists that follow. It was so pleasing just to be able to see this work and to appreciate the talent that has gone into creating such wonderful pieces.
It’s not only portraits he succeeds in hiding. This is one of my favourites!
Time keeps ticking on and I can’t believe another month has passed. Hopefully you have all enjoyed September as much as I did.
My friend Mark was in town. He used to live in Thailand before embarking on a digital nomad lifestyle that has seen him living in Sri Lanka, India, Nepal, and Bali. He’s back in the UK now before heading to Spain and then who knows where. While he was in town, I met up with him for a good old catch up.
Friends together after a long sojourn
I started reading The White Tiger by Aravind Adiga, a fabulous read about India’s underbelly. It’s unputdownable! That’s all I’m saying – you’ll have to wait for my review on Goodreads
The White Tiger by Aravind Adiga
The newsroom, a.k.a Facebook, reminded me of one of my favourite tunes – For an Angel, by Paul Van Dyk. I saw him play one New Year’s Eve at Don Valley Stadium in Sheffield. It was a memorable night, if only for the smart arse who decided to climb up the tent’s scaffolding, just at the stroke of midnight. Paul Van Dyk stopped his set until the idiot was brought back down to earth by security – at which point PVD punched him in the face for spoiling his set! (Or so the story goes!) Just a few days later, I was in New York with my boyfriend at the time and we went to a club where Paul Van Dyk was playing. In true cringe-worthy style, we made our way to the DJ booth and planted our NYE tickets (which we’d kept for this purpose) against the screen. PVD looked up, smiled, and gave us a thumbs up. The things you do when you’re a clubber!
Last week, I decided to go out for lunch at a restaurant that sells the most delicious Thai food. For me to even say that, let alone go to the other side of town from where I live, the food must be that good. I got off the skytrain and walked the rest of the way, so I could take some photographs. I’ve been to this little restaurant before and the Khao Soi was just as good as I remembered.
Khao Soi with seafood Photo Credit: Chris Wotton
My photo walk took me to Chong Nonsi Bridge…
Chong Nonsi Bridge, Bangkok – always good for a photograph
…across Sathorn Road…
Sathorn Road, Bangkok – with the busy roads either side of the old canal that was used in the past
…along Naradhiwat Rajanagarindra Road…
Love the Graffiti in these little alleys
Covert photography
Reflections
Buddha Fountain
…along Chan Road…
A thriving community
…and into Yen Akat Road.
The Local Fire Department
Bangkok is full of these old canals
Leafy avenue – Yen Akat Road – so quiet, it almost feels like a different place. This Banyan tree is just one kind of tree along this little lane
It’s the rainy season here in Thailand at the moment and we get rain most days. Sometimes it hammers down for hours on end, but mostly it’s just a brief shower followed by the relentless heat once more. In the space of three days, we went from afternoon stormy skies…
Before the rain comes the blackness
…to gorgeous morning blue skies without a cloud in sight (we like those the best)…
Perfect weather
…to blue skies with a few clouds (They’re OK)…
Nearly-perfect weather
…to pink evening skies. It really is wonderful to witness the changing face of mother nature.
Gorgeous pink sunset
About The Changing Seasons
The Changing Seasons is a monthly challenge where bloggers around the world share what’s been happening in their month.
If you would like to join me and the others in this challenge, here are the guidelines:
The Changing Seasons Version One (photographic)
Each month, post 5-20 photos in a gallery that you feel represent your month
Don’t use photos from your archive. Only new shots.
Tag your posts with #MonthlyPhotoChallenge and #TheChangingSeasons so that others can find them
The Changing Seasons Version Two (you choose the format):
Each month, post a photo, recipe, painting, drawing, video, whatever that you feel says something about your month
Don’t use archive stuff. Only new material!
Tag your posts with #MonthlyPhotoChallenge and #TheChangingSeasons so others can find them.
When in Rome, one of the best places to get an idea of what an ancient Roman stadium looked like in its hey-day is the Circus Maximus (Circo Massimo.) Today, it’s a recreational park used for concerts, performances, and celebrations. It sits in the shadows of the Palatine Hill, holding onto a thousand secrets of the past. The history of the Circus Maximus is an interesting one to say the least.
The Circus Maximus today – overlooked by Domitian’s palace
The Circus Maximus today
Situated at the south-west end of the Palatine Hill, the Circus Maximus was not only the first stadium ever built, but it was also the largest of its kind in ancient Rome and the Roman Empire.
Circus Maximus – model of how it looked back then/Photo credit: Wikipedia
It was built during the Etruscan era in the 6th century BC and was used for ludi Romani – Roman games, such as religious festivals, feasts, gladiator fights, and plays, which took place for the benefit of the people and to honour the Gods. Although many of these occasions took place annually, eventually, when Rome got bigger during the late republic era, these events were held at least once a week at the circus. When there were no such occasions, the Circus Maximus was used as a practise ground for chariot riders or became a bustling market area for Rome’s residents.
Circus Maximus – Oil on canvas by Viviano Codazzi and Domenico Gargiulo c.1638/Photo credit: Wikipedia
The Circus Maximus was the most important venue for all of these occasions, but over time more and more venues were built, such as the Colosseum and the Stadium of Domitian, and these took over as the place to see gladiator fights and athletics. Even so, by the late 1st century AD, the Circus Maximus continued to be the setting for chariot races.
These chariot races were thrilling, albeit highly dangerous, events and the crowds came from far and wide to witness these spectacles – and to place bets on their favourite charioteer to win. The chariots could be identified by colours and they were pulled by teams of horses –sometimes up to 12 abreast.
Circus Maximus by Jean Léon Gérôme c.1876/Photo credit: Wikipedia
The charioteers, some of them slaves, became rich and famous – victories rewarded with gold or money and the continuous adoration of the crowd – even the winning horses were lauded. One such man was Gaius Appuleius Diocles. With over 1,462 victories, he became known as the best paid athlete of all time, allegedly winning 35,863,120 sesterces (a whopping $15 billion in today’s money). He became renowned for his chariot-racing skills where he would thunder past the leading chariot at the very last minute – whipping the crowds up into a frenzy.
The highest paid athlete of all time – Gaius Appuleius Diocles/Photo credit: Wikipedia
Another celebrated charioteer went by the name of Scorpus or Scorpius. A slave when he first started out, he went on to be awarded the laurel wreath – the symbol of victory – countless times. He was victorious in over 2,000 races and won so much money that he was able to buy his freedom.
Another famed charioteer – Scorpus/Photo credit: Wikipedia
At first, the Circus Maximus was 540 m long and 80 m wide and it was on an area of land near the Tiber River, with nothing more than grass banks for spectators and turning posts at either end of the makeshift track. Later, Lucius Tarquinius Priscus, the 5th king of the Etruscans, added wooden seating for Rome’s elite. His grandson, Tarquinius Superbus, then added additional seating for the common people.
The Circus Maximus today
The Circus Maximus today
The Circus Maximus today
By the time of Julius Caesar, in 50 BC, there was room for 150,000 spectators and the Circus Maximus was now 621 m long and 150 m wide. The arena’s seating was divided into caveas (enclosures). There were usually 3 caveas for each social class. Ima Cavea was for the upper class; media cavea for men; and summa cavea for women and children.
Modern spectators!
The Circus Maximus was further developed by Augustus and, following a fire in 31 BC, he erected Rome’s first ever obelisk on the central barrier – later this barrier was filled with temples, shrines and other structures, as well as being a safe place for fallen charioteers to recover while the race was still in progress. This Egyptian obelisk can now be seen in Piazza del Popolo. Further fires in 36 AD and 64 AD destroyed the arena, but the games continued because the circus was rebuilt in the same design.
Circus Maximus and the Imperial Palace
Circus Maximus and the Imperial Palace
During the early 2nd century AD, stone seating was built around the track and it was there that Rome’s senators were able to get as close to the action as possible. In 81 AD, Domitian built his sumptuous palace on the Palatine Hill and he relished in being able to watch the games from his vantage point without being seen by the ever-expanding crowds.
The Circus Maximus and the Imperial Palace of Domitian
Following the reign of Domitian, Emperor Trajan made the decision to rebuild the Circus Maximus in stone to prevent further fire damage and from this point on, save a few additions and alterations, the Circus Maximus was at its greatest and remained unchanged for many years to come.
The Eastern End of the Circus Maximus
By the 6th century AD, the Circus Maximus had seen out its glory days and was no longer used. The stone was used for other buildings throughout Rome. The lower levels of the arena and the original track were now buried underground. Houses were built on the site in the 11th century and throughout the 16th century the Circus Maximus was used as to grow crops that could be sold in the local markets. A world away from its previous role in Roman society.
Standing on a hidden past!
The early 20th century saw excavations of the site begin in earnest and parts of the original central barrier and seating were uncovered. Sadly, some of these findings have since been buried again up to 9 m underground. However, more recent excavations have started to uncover a second Arch of Titus – the first one is near the Roman Forum and the Colosseum. Built by Emperor Domitian, it would have been a grand entrance to the Circus Maximus.
Circus Maximus – the uncovering of the second Arch of Titus
As these excavations continue, the more we can learn about the history of the Circus Maximus and all the secrets of the past.
There are plenty of places to visit in Bangkok and exploring on foot is a great way to experience them. Of course, you could take a taxi, bus or skytrain, but you’d miss all that the lively streets of the city have to offer. Plus, you’ll find some interesting things along the way. I’ve lived in this wonderful city for 4 years now and I have visited most of the popular attractions, so when I am out, I search for different things to write about and take photographs of. So, if you’re in town, explore to your heart’s content and, if you feel like it, see if you can find these cool statues dotted around the city.
If you’re at Wat Arun, it’s fun to scamper up and down the steps of the main temple, but I found this Buddha statue through a red door. This one is the Alms Collecting Buddha or Begging Buddha and it represents compassion and caring for others. If you’re up early enough, it’s usual to see bare-footed, orange-robed monks collecting food from people all over the country. Just to be clear, the Buddha never begged for anything, the people gave him food, and now people continue to do this as a way of making merit to allow good karma into their lives.
Wat Arun sits on the banks of the Chao Phraya River – it’s better to go there, so you can see how the 5 prangs of the temple have been artistically decorated with seashells and pieces of coloured porcelain which sparkle in the sunlight. The views from the other side of the river aren’t bad either!
Alms Collecting Buddha or Begging Buddha at Wat Arun
This Buddha statue is in Benjakitti Park – right in the heart of the city – and it represents the Meditation Buddha, the Serenity Buddha or the Calming Buddha. You’ll notice the gold sculpture is triangle-shaped which means stability and many people who are seeking peace and calmness will sit in front of the statue and meditate. Whether you’re into meditating or not, Benjakitti Park makes for a welcome break from all the chaos of the busy streets nearby.
Meditation Buddha, the Serenity Buddha or the Calming Buddha in Benjakitti Park
This cool little statue sits in the middle of a lily pond, surrounded by potted plants and miniature trees, in the gardens of M.R Kukrit’s Heritage Home. The home of Thailand’s 13th prime minister, it really is very pleasant to wander around the grounds, surprisingly peaceful considering its location in busy Sathorn. It might not be up there on your to-do list, but I guarantee it’s worth the effort of finding it.
Gardens and statue at M.R Kukrit’s Heritage Home
Head to Chulachomklao Fort, in Phra Samut Chedi District, and you will find this splendid statue of King Chulalongkorn (King Rama V) in naval uniform. It’s the first thing you’ll notice when you arrive at the fort – built to protect Thailand from invading European countries. As well as this cool statue, you’ll find a gun park, an underground bunker with several disappearing guns, and the H.T.M.S. Maeklong. Also, don’t miss the mangrove walkway with its resident and totally nonchalant monkeys.
King Rama V Statue at Chulachomklao Fort
This huge Buddha statue represents the Earth Touching Buddha or Calling the Earth to Witness Buddha and it sits on the shores of the Chao Phraya River opposite the small island of Koh Kret, in Nonthaburi. With legs crossed, left hand resting on its lap, and right hand pointing towards the ground, this statue depicts the moment when the Buddha attained enlightenment. In his efforts, he was tempted by the demon, Mara, so he meditated all night to fight her off. It worked, and he called the Earth Goddess to witness his success.
The best way to see Koh Kret is to walk or cycle along its pathways through local villages. Shop at the colourful market or you could try your hand at pottery – not as easy as it looks, but you’ll come away with your very own creation as a souvenir.
Earth Touching Buddha or Calling the Earth to Witness Buddha opposite Koh Kret, Nonthaburi
On the junction of Rama IV Road and Silom Road, you’ll see this impressive statue of King Vajiravudh (King Rama VI), dressed in ceremonial uniform, at the entrance to Lumpini Park. The statue was built by Italian architect, Corrado Feroci, in 1941 and pays tribute to the king who donated a piece of land, called Sala Daeng, to be used as a public park. There is a lake and a jogging track and it’s a popular place for people to spend time as the sun goes down. There’s wildlife too – around 30 species of birds and a few dinosaur-like water monitors.
King Rama VI at Lumpini Park
Get off the BTS at Ratchathewi and walk back towards the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre and you’ll come across this four-headed white-elephant statue which forms part of the Chaloem La 56 Bridge or Hua Chang (Elephant-Head Bridge) as the locals like to call it. The bridge was built to celebrate the 56th birthday of King Rama V. The bridge crosses the Saen Saep Canal where you can either walk along the pathway with loads of cool and colourful graffiti or take a boat in either direction to explore the city some more – traffic free!
Elephant Head Bridge
This mammoth statue of King Rama I sits on the banks of the Chao Phraya River near the Memorial Bridge. The statue was designed by Prince Naris and made by Corrado Feroci in 1932 to commemorate the king who established Bangkok as the new capital of Thailand in 1782. From here, Yodpiman river walk is nearby where you can catch the ferry over to Thonburi or wander around the streets of Little India for delicious Indian snacks and a lively market.
King Rama I Statue near Memorial Bridge
Not far from Sathorn, in Bang Kho Laem district, is Asiatique The Riverfront – an open air mall, with loads of shops and restaurants, which really comes alive in the evenings. Asiatique is located on the former docks of the East Asiatic Company and they established the first international port to support incoming and outgoing trade. It’s there you’ll find these three bronze statues, looking out across the river, representing maritime activity from years ago. There are other similar statues nearby as well as a World War II bomb shelter, warehouses dating back to 1907, and a reproduction of the very first electric tram from the nineteenth century.
Bronze Maritime Statues at Asiatique
Also at Asiatique is the lovely Juliet Love Garden. This statue of Juliet stands, looking somewhat forlornly, in the middle of a small courtyard. The iron fence surrounding the statue has hundreds of padlocks with love messages inscribed forever.
Juliet’s Love Garden at Asiatique
I really love visiting the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre. No matter what time of year, there are loads of interesting exhibitions and photographic displays. Sometimes, there are one or two sculptures displayed outside on the street. I have no idea what this big-breasted, pointy-eared, warrior-type statue is all about, but it always makes me smile. With its outstretched arm it never fails to catch the attention of people passing by.
Statue outside Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre
Wat Saket, also known as The Golden Mount is a splendid place to visit and if you walk up to the top, you’ll be rewarded with 360° views out over the rooftops of Bangkok.
To get to the top, there are over 300 steps which snake around the hill and, along the way, you’ll find this golden Buddha holding a staff and a parasol – possibly depicting him as he travelled far and wide teaching Dharma. The statue is standing under the forest-green foliage in the middle of a waterfall – the water splashing over the grey rocks is soothing.
Accompanying him are three wise monkeys who “hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil.” The relationship these monkeys have with the Buddha is that he believed the human mind is filled with screeching monkeys – all vying for our attention. The Buddha believed that meditation can quieten the monkeys, so we can live peaceful and calm lives.
Golden Buddha Statue at Wat Saket (The Golden Mount)
Overlooking the Chao Phraya River and Bhumibhol Bridge is this Buddha statue which represents Repelling the Ocean and Preventing Relatives from Fighting. Repelling the ocean relates to when a hermit tried to cause a flood, but the Buddha meditated for as long as it took to stop it. Preventing the relatives from fighting tells the story of when the Buddha’s family were fighting over water, so he raised his right hand which made them stop arguing. Bonus points for finding this statue! Clue – hop on a ferry across the river to Bang Kachao and get exploring.
Repelling the Ocean and Preventing Relatives from Fighting, near the Chao Phraya River and Bhumibhol Bridge
This huge statue of Ganesha, a well-known God in Hinduism, is located in Sri Nakhon Khuankhan Botanical Gardens, in Bangkok’s Green Lung, full of tropical trees and flowers, a large pond, and several walking and cycling paths. It’s a fabulous day out if you’re looking to get into nature and relaxation. Mooshika the rat sits at Ganesha’s feet and, being a rat, they are able to chew their way through anything. A handy partner to have when you are known as the remover of obstacles.
Ganesha at Sri Nakhon Khuankhan Botanical Gardens
Not far from Dusit Park is the noble King Rama V Equestrian Statue. Built in the early twentieth century, this statue was erected to commemorate the king’s coronation. He also contributed much to the modernisation of Bangkok and the cost of the statue was raised by the people themselves to show their gratitude.
Also nearby is Wat Benchamabophit and Bangkok’s Old City with lots of historical sites and temples, bars and restaurants, and hundreds of nooks and crannies just begging to be explored – you could spend the whole day in this area and only just scratch the surface.
King Rama V Statue, near Dusit Park
I hope you enjoy exploring these places to visit in Bangkok as much as I have. Let me know what else you find on your adventures 🙂
