Phra Athit Road is not far away from the infamous Khao San Road but it is one of the coolest, hippest streets I know. Much cooler than its more well-known neighbour. It’s not as crowded with people, particularly in the evenings, but that’s not a bad thing in my book. There are still enough goings on to get in the spirit of things. There are cafes and restaurants that sell delicious food, try Roti Mataba for a fabulous curry, or get your fill of live music and drink premium beer from any of the interesting bars along the road; try Good Story.
If you don’t fancy that there is always Santichaiprakan Park where you can relax and enjoy the river views, or take a few photographs of Phra Sumen Fort.
Whatever you want to do I recommend that you check out Phra Athit Road; it’s one of my favourite places to hang out and it might become one of yours too. 🙂
Getting there: It depends where you are coming from but one of the easiest ways is to take a boat to Phra Athit Pier. Otherwise, it’s a short walk from Khao San Road; which every taxi knows.
Dusit Park is home to several of Bangkok’s royal palaces and residences; the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall, the Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall, and Vimanek Mansion to name a few. The park was built by King Rama V who, after a trip to Europe, wanted to build a complex which had open spaces with many trees and plants, creating a cool environment and a place for relaxation.
The buildings here are of very different styles, some dating back to the early 1900s.Vimanek mansion is said to be the world’s largest teakwood building and it was King Rama V’s home during that time. There are many rooms arranged with furniture, pictures, and other personal effects of the royal family. The largest and most prominent of the buildings is the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall, the spectacular white-marbled edifice dominates the skyline. Inside, there are paintings that depict the history of the Chakri Dynasty. However, for me, the Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall is the most beautiful; the Moorish-style architecture gives the building a striking appearance. Inside there is an exhibition of arts and crafts.
There is an admission charge to some of the buildings but if you just want to wander around the grounds, entry to the park is free.
A lot of tourists visit the park each day but you can still escape the crowds a little, particularly if you are not bothered about entering the buildings.
Address: Dusit Park, Ratchawithi Road, Bangkok 10300
I’ve never really been one for shopping and going to any sort of market, particularly in the evenings. I work in the evenings so any free time I get I like to relax with a glass of wine or two, and the suggestion of going to a night market makes me shudder. However, after a little persuasion from my friends and after much complaining from me, I arrive to said night market and realise that I actually love the place. Enter Jatujak Green Market, or JJ Green for short.
Located near Mo Chit BTS station, it’s easy to get to. Just cross Chatuchak Park and you’re there. Five minutes tops. JJ Green is a small but vibrant place full of stalls selling anything from retro t-shirts and vinyl CDs to vintage artwork and antiques. There are permanent shops, cafes and bars, and local sellers who just take up a space and display their goods in the car park. The items on sale are pretty cheap as well; I bagged myself a denim jacket for 150 baht.
It doesn’t take long to wander around, but the evening doesn’t end there. There are a few cool, hip bars to choose from where you can watch the world go by. It really is a great place to spend an evening. You’ll find yourself getting lost in the buzzing atmosphere.
JJ Green is open from Thursday to Sunday evenings, 5.00pm until midnight, although some of the bars stay open longer at the weekends.
Last I heard pandas were indigenous to China so why are 1,600 of them making their way around Bangkok?
Shockingly, 1,600 is the number of pandas left in the wild, and these cute little papier-mache figures are touring the city to raise awareness for panda conservation.
The title, 1600 Pandas+ refers to the increase in the population of wild giant pandas, of 17%, since the inception of this project, and to the increased public awareness of panda conservation.
I went to visit the pandas at Sanam Luang-the first leg of their journey through the city.
You can catch the main exhibition at Central Embassy from 24th March-10th April, 10.00am-10.00pm.
Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit road, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330
Bukruk Urban Arts Festival was a 10-day exhibition, which ran from 23rd January to 31st January 2016, here in Bangkok. It featured public wall paintings, art exhibitions, artist talks, an animation night, and a music festival.
The festival this year was the second of its kind, and it focused on established and new artists from Asia and Europe.
What piqued my interest the most was the wall art that was to be created around the streets of Bangrak. So, on my day off, I went off to discover these exhibits for myself.
Day 1
With google maps duly printed off, details of all 13 artists, and my camera ready to shoot, I set off for the day. I came across the first exhibit on Decho Road; a huge red, black, and white mural, which the artist seemed to have just finished because the scaffolding was still up. I took a few pictures and continued in my search for the next exhibit on my list.
I went to the second and third locations, in Yannawa, and could I find them? I searched everywhere. The maps showed the locations clear enough but they were nowhere to be found. A little disappointed, I continued onwards along Charoen Krung Road.
I managed to find a few more exhibits, a couple with the artists still at work.
But I didn’t find all 13. In fact, I found 5 out of the 13 I had planned to see. I felt defeated to say the least.
Defeated, because I thought that my exploration skills were up to scratch, what with the amount of walking I do around the city. But as someone who likes to see the positive in everything, there was a silver lining to my cloud. I love to explore Bangkok and my search for these exhibits had taken me down some little lanes and alleys that were all new to me, so from that point of view I still enjoyed my day out.
Upon my return home, I saw that the Bukruk organisers had posted an updated map on their Facebook page, so I realised that I had been looking in the wrong locations all along.
Day 2
The following week, with the updated map in hand, and my camera at the ready again, I went out in search of the wall art that I had missed.
This time I took a boat to Rachawong pier, and found Songwat Road, where I knew some of the wall art was located.
Songwat Road is full of old buildings and industrial shops, selling car parts and such like. It’s a hive of activity, and popular with tourists, a few cycling through the streets. It’s a pleasant walk from Rachawong pier down to River City shopping mall. There are so many alleyways to explore, and loads of interesting things to see; a 200 year old house, Kalawar Church, and Chinese temples.
I found more exhibits, my favourite one was two huge elephants touching rear to rear, who appeared to be tumbling through the air.
In fact, I was impressed by all the paintings I found and, even though I still failed to find all of them, I was glad I had gone out again in search of them. By the second week the artists had all finished their creations so there was no scaffolding in front of them, and what was left was their work decorating the walls of Bangrak.
And there it will remain, hopefully for months to come, not only decorating Bangrak’s walls, but also providing a link between the art, the historical buildings, and the art galleries in the area; a goal that the organisers wish to achieve. I, for one, took great pleasure in wandering around this area and seeing some of the fantastic work that has been created by these very talented artists.
Organised by Anantara Hotels, Resorts and Spas, the Bangkok Elephant Parade is in town. The elephants have all been hand painted, decorated and donated by artists and celebrities in aid of elephant conservation projects. The art work is both interesting and colorful. Go and check it out if you are in the area. The parade is at Siam Paragon until the 18th December.
Since I moved to Bangkok I have taken it upon myself to become acquainted with the city. And it is my mission to explore and find new places. Here are my top 10 alternative things to do in Bangkok.
1. Take a trip on the Chao Phraya River– this has to be my favourite way to travel in Bangkok. Not only will you get a different viewpoint of the city, you will see many sights that exemplify just how diverse Bangkok is. It is also the cheapest and quickest way to get to most destinations.
Click here for more information on things to do near each pier. How to get there: The best way to get to the river is to take the BTS to Saphan Taksin pier, or if you are staying near Khao San Road the closet pier is Phra Arthit. Open: Daily 6.00am-7.30pm
The Diversity of Bangkok, as seen from the Chao Phraya River
2. Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre– For anyone who needs a little culture fix whilst in Bangkok, visit the BACC. It is a huge place full of cafes and coffee shops, book shops and stalls selling crafts and homemade jewellery. There are 9 floors, all exhibiting art in different genres from paintings and drawings to film and theatre. You could easily spend the whole day there if you wanted to. A real must for art lovers. Click here for what’s on at the BACC. How to get there: National Stadium BTS, exit 3. Address: 939 Rama I Road, Wangmai, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330 Open: Tuesday to Sunday 10.00am to 9.00pm
Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre
3. Visit Wat Po at night-Fed up with hoards of people? Then visit Wat Po at night. There is no-one there, save the odd security guard or monk. The main temple with the reclining Buddha is not open but you are free to wander around the grounds in the shadows of the illuminated temples and statues. It’s something that most people don’t do when they visit Bangkok but they definitely should. It’s a very calming experience. How to get there: The simplest option is to take a taxi but that can work out expensive due to its location and the traffic. Another option is to take the ferry. The pier for Wat Po is Tha Tien (N8). Once off the ferry it is a 10 minute walk from the pier, or 2 minutes in a tuk-tuk or taxi. Address: 2 Sanamchai Road, Grand Palace Subdistrict, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok 10200
Wat Po at night
4. Go to Koh Kret– Koh Kret is a small island in the Chao Phraya River and located in Nonthaburi. It is a bit of a trek to get there but well worth the visit. The best way to see Koh Kret is on foot. There is a pathway that goes all the way round the island and a leisurely walk, through local villages, will take you around 1 ½ to 2 hours. There is also a market to browse and buy local Mon pottery, or countless restaurants to sit and have lunch while you gaze out over the river.
Click here for more information on Koh Kret. How to get there: Take the once-weekly Chao Phraya Express, which leaves Saphan Taksin every Sunday at 09:00 and visits a number of attractions before returning at 15:30. The cost of the cruise and guided tour is 300 baht (no lunch). Public bus 166 from Victory Monument, which travels all the way to the market in Pak Kret. From there, you have to walk about 500 metres, or take a taxi, to the ferry pier, located behind Wat Sanam Neua. The Chao Phraya “green flag” express boat offers a direct service from BTS Saphan Taksin to Pak Kret (pier N33), from 06.15am to 08.00am. Return journey from 3.30pm to 6.00pm with no service on Sundays. The trip costs 20 baht and takes just over an hour.
Koh Kret, Bangkok
5. Go to Talad Rot Fai Market– Translated as train market, this little gem in Srinakarin will give you more of a local experience than the more touristy places such as MBK and Khao San Road. Jam packed with stalls, selling everything you could think of, bars, actual bars to cocktail cars, and plenty of restaurants and places to eat. It’s also known as a vintage market, so if you want to find anything retro then this is the place. It will provide you with a lively and fun-filled evening. How to get there: The best way to get there is by taxi but the traffic can get very busy so you should consider getting the BTS to On Nut and then get a taxi from there Address: Srinakarin Road Soi 51, Nong Bon, Prawet, Bangkok, 10250 Open: Thursday to Sunday 4.00pm-1.00am
Talad Rod Fai, Srinakarin, Bangkok
6. Have dinner and drinks at Hemingway’s– You like Thai food right? But sometimes it’s just nice to eat some food that reminds you of home, right? Hemingway’s is the place to go. A little oasis in the heart of Sukhumvit, the bar is a beautiful old colonial style building with a tree filled garden area and water fountain. They do a delicious range of Western food and an all-day happy hour on certain drinks. It feels like you are a million miles away from the busy Sukhumvit Road.
Click here for their menu. How to get there: 1 minute from Asok BTS and Sukhumvit MRT Address: 1 Sukhumvit Soi 14, Sukhumvit Road, Khlong Toei, Bangkok 10110 Open: Monday to Sunday 11.30am-1.00am
Hemingway’s, Bangkok
7. Take a stroll through Little India– Locally known as Phahurat this is the place to go if you are looking for a bargain. The myriad of stalls and shops sell everything from jewellery to fabrics and costumes. There are tons of places to eat and I particularly recommend The Royal India restaurant, on Chakphet Road. The restaurant has won many awards for their delicious and cheap food. It’s a really nice way to spend an afternoon, wander around the little alleys and see an alternative part of Bangkok. How to get there: From Hua Lamphong train station take a tuk-tuk or taxi to Chakphet Road. Alternatively, the nearest pier is Yodpiman Pier (N6)
Little India, Bangkok
8. Hang out on Samsen Road and Phra Arthit Road– There is much to be discovered near to the infamous Khao San Road. Both Samsen Road and Phra Arthit Road are full of cafes, bars and restaurants that are definitely overlooked by their more well-known neighbour. Get an art, movie, and drinks fix at Chomp and Cinema Winehouse on Samsen Road. Or get a more authentic experience on Phra Arthit Road where you can sample some delicious curries with roti bread at Roti Mataba. Drink premium beer at Good Story or rest a while in the shade of a tree while enjoying the river views at Santichaiprakan Park. How to get there: Take the ferry to Phra Arthit Pier. (N13) Leave the pier and turn left onto Phra Arthit Road. However, if you are staying on Khao San Road, Samsen Road is located at the police station end. Turn right. For Phra Arthit Road walk through Soi Rambuttri until you reach an alleyway which will lead you there.
9. Have Thai food on the street– As much as I love eating in restaurants and drinking in bars, you can’t quite beat sitting on the pavement, amidst all that chaos that comes from living in a busy city, eating freshly prepared Thai food. It is, by far, the cheapest way to eat and the best way to experience Thai food. The food stalls are everywhere, just look for the places where the locals hang out. If it is busy, be warned that some places sell out very early on in the day, but you can be sure that the food is very popular and very delicious. How to get there: These places are everywhere but I have a couple of favourites. Soi Convent for Khao Man Gai (Chicken and rice) 40 baht. Off Silom Road, nr. Sala Daeng BTS Udomsuk Soi 103 for Somtam (Papaya salad) 35 baht. Sois 18 and/or 19, nr. Udomsuk BTS On the corner of Atsadang Road and Trok Sake for Pad Krapow Moo (Stir Fry Pork with Holy Basil and rice) 50 baht. Round the corner from The Royal Hotel, Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (Nr. Khao San Road)
Street Food, Bangkok
10. Go to Dasa Books– For all those book worms in need of a place to just chill the hell out, Dasa Books on Sukhumvit Road is the perfect place to relax with a coffee or two. They have a wide range of books in store, some of which are on sale for under 50 baht. I dare you not to buy anything.
Click here for their website How to get there: Take the BTS to Phrom Phong and from there it is a few minutes walk. It is located in between sois 24 and 26. Address: 4 Sukhumvit Road, Khlong Toei, Bangkok, 10110 Open- Daily 10.00am-8.00pm
Dasa Books, Bangkok
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Sampheng Lane, or to be more exact Soi Wanit, is a little alleyway that runs parallel to Yaowarat Road in the heart of Chinatown in Bangkok.
On either side of this narrow lane there are shop fronts and stalls selling all manner of things from fruit and sweets to fabrics and handicraft supplies. It’s the place to go if you are into making things because you can buy products like beads, feathers, buttons and bows at a very cheap price.
There are so many fabrics to choose from as well. A variety of fabulous colours and textures, the displays adding to the vibrant feel of the place. The fabrics are also very cheap, some starting at 70 baht per metre.
There are a few jewellery shops as well- the best one is Coco House. Everything is 100 baht. Not the best quality but some really nice and cheap bracelets and necklaces. If you’re anything like me, you won’t be able to resist a peak insist. The walls are covered top-to-bottom in gold and silver jewellery.
Sampheng Lane is full of people and not for those who get claustrophobic. But if you aren’t in a rush to go anywhere, and you don’t mind squeezing your way along you will find a very colourful, very local and very cheap place to explore.
How to get there:
Soi Wanit is a 15 minute walk from Hua Lamphong Train Station. If you don’t fancy walking, get a tuk-tuk or motorbike from the station.
During the week I had a sudden urge to go and find some butterflies to photograph. I found the Bangkok Butterfly Garden and Insectarium near to Chatuchak Park.
The butterflies are free to fly around, in spite of the netting to keep them enclosed. As a rule I much prefer seeing animals in their natural habitat but it was nice to get a little closer to these beautiful little creatures.
The butterfly garden is located in Rot Fai Gardens-just across the road from Chatuchak Park. It’s a little hard to find as all the signs are in Thai but ask a friendly soul, like I did, and they will point you in the right direction.
Well, in my effort to go to new places I haven’t been doing bad over the past few weeks. New bars and restaurants and more recently Jazz on Sukhumvit.
Jazz on Sukhumvit is a spot of jazz held, you guessed it, on Sukhumvit Road every Sunday afternoon from 2.30pm until 6.00pm, and let me tell you it’s a fab way to spend an afternoon.
It’s held at Check Inn 99, located in between sois 5 and 7 near Nana BTS station. When my friend, Mike, suggested we go there, of course, I was all over it.
Jazz on Sukhumvit
The entrance is very small, so small I have never noticed it before, but it opens up into a dark, but cosy, low ceilinged bar, with tables and chairs set around a small stage at the back. The staff are really friendly and the food and drinks are all reasonably priced. 95 baht for a chicken kebab or jacket potato.
The place has a resident jazz band that, I am told by Mike, play at other venues in the city. If you fancy a jam, pick up your chosen instrument and the band will happily accommodate you for a couple of tunes. Let me say this though, if you are less than average I wouldn’t bother because these guys are good. Really good. I mean you could just see, hear and feel the passion they all have for what they do.
The musicians played a variety of instruments like bass and acoustic guitars, saxophone, trumpet, drums and keyboard. A real combination of sounds that truly are amazing to listen to.
They invited three singers to join them, one woman and two men. The woman was good but the men’s voices kind of blew me away. The first, older guy, his voice was so silky and the silkiness poured out of his mouth throughout the whole bar. It was mesmerising. The second guy came on last, and talk about saving the best for last. He sang “Summertime” in a way that gave me goose bumps.
I don’t know much about jazz but I do know I like to listen to music that makes me feel good. I enjoyed it so much I had tears in my eyes. It really moved me. To see the passion these musicians have for their work is truly inspiring.
Everyone who comes to this venue share an appreciation for the very talented musicians who play there and to listen to some wonderful music.
It was over all too soon but it certainly opened my eyes to a whole new world. So I would like to say thank you to Mike for that. I shall certainly be returning to enjoy some more Jazz on Sukhumvit and I think, if you’re in the neighbourhood, you should too. You won’t regret it.
Here is the original “Summertime” by Ella Fitzgerald for you to enjoy.
